tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-85882040148153632822024-03-05T02:10:50.005-08:00My African dreamThe story of tour travels through Africa. Our first trip was down the West Africa coast, then we went back to Southern Namibia. Some trips inside South Africa followed, and now for Mozambique!. The planning, the modifications, the experience, and the burocracy!Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.comBlogger48125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-1994476674262846212014-09-26T11:43:00.001-07:002014-09-26T11:43:14.959-07:00<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgm4sVVsq8jPNTPrSD3qbcCZgrURBP1bEuLyScWuAnYRtp1NeiXnpAWBg-32QOIDbrblkzTAZFMoLNrwte8Jo98U9AQ1CJfScEgvCA2Ahi0ETEUwBCsjXTVI8Bjn7odrR3LPxovQrmNi6L/s1600/DSC_6463.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgm4sVVsq8jPNTPrSD3qbcCZgrURBP1bEuLyScWuAnYRtp1NeiXnpAWBg-32QOIDbrblkzTAZFMoLNrwte8Jo98U9AQ1CJfScEgvCA2Ahi0ETEUwBCsjXTVI8Bjn7odrR3LPxovQrmNi6L/s1600/DSC_6463.jpg" height="132" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monster mine machines stalk the desert</td></tr>
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Well, we did it again. With Mother in law and friend on board, we pointed the old Cruiser west, into the desert. It is spring in the Southern hemisphere, and with good rains the desert blooms. Guest house prices shoot up, and we arrived at what should have been the peak, only to be told that the best of the season is over.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfwpw_732Kv_CkHygPNpQoA36s5C2QhbZVAfA0QarURZWggaE7r8Y6-yqLa_9FVJII3_grXGKR7Um3ayf75aeAvx1s7qMB5D3cASX6POYjjHsOdkJXkomqoqVgWr9Ikf4CapBAeHvXurRh/s1600/DSC_6548.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfwpw_732Kv_CkHygPNpQoA36s5C2QhbZVAfA0QarURZWggaE7r8Y6-yqLa_9FVJII3_grXGKR7Um3ayf75aeAvx1s7qMB5D3cASX6POYjjHsOdkJXkomqoqVgWr9Ikf4CapBAeHvXurRh/s1600/DSC_6548.jpg" height="200" width="132" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">in a hidden canyon in the Kalahari</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8PhH5BsEEqLFYZGVjUfBEO-yNYo9__5MueA03VMpNNiRzx6ZPBtI7VeYSJ0tIA5DFyCKlYZ9AAB3NxOds2fdzYcfOACDV8xCMr4TdRRMp8JkZjgs9FcDAbGWqI7FN68K07wL3yfCg_-8h/s1600/DSC_6569.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8PhH5BsEEqLFYZGVjUfBEO-yNYo9__5MueA03VMpNNiRzx6ZPBtI7VeYSJ0tIA5DFyCKlYZ9AAB3NxOds2fdzYcfOACDV8xCMr4TdRRMp8JkZjgs9FcDAbGWqI7FN68K07wL3yfCg_-8h/s1600/DSC_6569.jpg" height="200" width="132" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">there is a healing spring</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYpxX4XcUJpVKIhGvEOEdPAMXL-xbN_LsBWpYtG8btgiLvu8NdFdjbYIEm1i99SBG2Ve1bkQErHMi-01wKCifO8PZ-yDtaHMGPnmnEh7c34dehJtULJLzW0jm-9st4H9BxbBUD8PWvfGaS/s1600/DSC_6554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYpxX4XcUJpVKIhGvEOEdPAMXL-xbN_LsBWpYtG8btgiLvu8NdFdjbYIEm1i99SBG2Ve1bkQErHMi-01wKCifO8PZ-yDtaHMGPnmnEh7c34dehJtULJLzW0jm-9st4H9BxbBUD8PWvfGaS/s1600/DSC_6554.jpg" height="200" width="132" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with magic in the rocks.</td></tr>
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On the way we did a detour to follow rumours of a hot spring, in the desert, and, with good luck, we managed to find the place: Hidden in a canyon, near a settlement of people who were the first nation in this area before being uprooted and dumped elsewhere. Now they have regained their land, and are running the small resort, the waters of which is supposed to have healing powers. Well, I can attest that a dog bite that was long in healing closed up soon afterwards, and Shahnaz stopped complaining of a sprained ankle.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwgYuGJtMGEh3DvQVEI9dUPxKrRemM55sgeqKmAMP_k0E88Xsu_u0ycLW84OAThXsCp7YlD__8z5NfrMiP5KgsPZ9wygQtmsYazUVI3JI9YZKeOxNFBw2iQ1dDW3ZxFkGgkpSZl22ckj95/s1600/DSC_6496.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwgYuGJtMGEh3DvQVEI9dUPxKrRemM55sgeqKmAMP_k0E88Xsu_u0ycLW84OAThXsCp7YlD__8z5NfrMiP5KgsPZ9wygQtmsYazUVI3JI9YZKeOxNFBw2iQ1dDW3ZxFkGgkpSZl22ckj95/s1600/DSC_6496.jpg" height="200" width="132" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But there was time to take in the atmosphere</td></tr>
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Inevitably, just as we were about to leave cell phone coverage, a client called with an urgent translation job .... so Shahnaz spent a romantic afternoon on the banks of the Orange river ... working.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi2ZHN-2O3FuZsUkv_86j9PamnA_zfH2qIGMuQd7LQUrevqUgGpni7D80IMl9IpzlEiFUJn35DMmvXQHFirZJVAQ9wB1T9gD1RMVWh5FgVULlLop0XBM39VDMxa8BRI0sqjvi8VaOVZPlb/s1600/DSC_6470.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi2ZHN-2O3FuZsUkv_86j9PamnA_zfH2qIGMuQd7LQUrevqUgGpni7D80IMl9IpzlEiFUJn35DMmvXQHFirZJVAQ9wB1T9gD1RMVWh5FgVULlLop0XBM39VDMxa8BRI0sqjvi8VaOVZPlb/s1600/DSC_6470.jpg" height="132" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Work, work, work</td></tr>
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Driving towards Springbok we saw not a trace of flowers until, all of a sudden, we drove into a riot of colours. Some were succulents, but many were quick blooming flowers that shoot up if there are spring rains, and vanish as suddenly. it was strange to see the flowers bloom with gay abandon next to the road, in water courses, just where you look.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibvlq82avJvEOnmpgoAExL-zDtU0TbkCcZO4G1xdpFTV9_wdQGOYU6f_WmrddLY7jIndAjmcjT8jyAEoOxB9YZ_SkNK-zpK97Hb1LUUS7E1Ht7Zb-YNhzFupGmngjZJZGGJdtQ8TMJGRkQ/s1600/DSC_6603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibvlq82avJvEOnmpgoAExL-zDtU0TbkCcZO4G1xdpFTV9_wdQGOYU6f_WmrddLY7jIndAjmcjT8jyAEoOxB9YZ_SkNK-zpK97Hb1LUUS7E1Ht7Zb-YNhzFupGmngjZJZGGJdtQ8TMJGRkQ/s1600/DSC_6603.jpg" height="132" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And then there were flowers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ_MjefwFgwMvNa4UR_U0ClJHYRJ2JHOZy_nGtNyJISv7SY4xbGb09f-4Mrq3LBUPyRKpsEsLqajsCXURspsNiVOmJknWC7d43estx0AYd6yCCt9makdzCAI0e1fm9xFKJVqa8LYL1CJ-y/s1600/DSC_6677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ_MjefwFgwMvNa4UR_U0ClJHYRJ2JHOZy_nGtNyJISv7SY4xbGb09f-4Mrq3LBUPyRKpsEsLqajsCXURspsNiVOmJknWC7d43estx0AYd6yCCt9makdzCAI0e1fm9xFKJVqa8LYL1CJ-y/s1600/DSC_6677.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">by the roadside</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh7sCWS1LixG9MJXsSrr6oo_ApMhHfVwoM-FA0hFcap3nWd_drL9jPX9NTG-33CjCOaVR-TeuFNtLFegFrRGUsFICaaI5fsF1fMsdwUCxM0N0fmue0O6ljRjlvAhmIrKiLNkijhQ0TtOiv/s1600/DSC_6645.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh7sCWS1LixG9MJXsSrr6oo_ApMhHfVwoM-FA0hFcap3nWd_drL9jPX9NTG-33CjCOaVR-TeuFNtLFegFrRGUsFICaaI5fsF1fMsdwUCxM0N0fmue0O6ljRjlvAhmIrKiLNkijhQ0TtOiv/s1600/DSC_6645.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All sorts of flowers</td></tr>
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And then it was time to turn back, and the road was long, hot and weary. But the memory will brighten the mind for a long time.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeTQ8YOsU9D9wKKKbbQ62U8yesrKLyvptObikbyx-TKnJZ-fOr5P1SuGcaiKFaWkGk2vtq3ksrgDcAKSL1dB1zGjv3e6xp63t2pD9JFEf20-gGypMfuRa5juoN6_1UimXvv_v3Z75CdRhB/s1600/DSC_6713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeTQ8YOsU9D9wKKKbbQ62U8yesrKLyvptObikbyx-TKnJZ-fOr5P1SuGcaiKFaWkGk2vtq3ksrgDcAKSL1dB1zGjv3e6xp63t2pD9JFEf20-gGypMfuRa5juoN6_1UimXvv_v3Z75CdRhB/s1600/DSC_6713.jpg" height="320" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even hero's could not resist</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW7W9TmRmlNrrXQA25Cua2odcInUbh6hhJjm8SkqS8YcVIOgtbKc5nlI-zNuFYuE6f5xj29ATfSj3ebyPHkGUAF1DAFSVSj3XMY8jV8gd2ipj6bmR0Jht6JINehiLfbbgALle7fr1U6ed7/s1600/DSC_6718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW7W9TmRmlNrrXQA25Cua2odcInUbh6hhJjm8SkqS8YcVIOgtbKc5nlI-zNuFYuE6f5xj29ATfSj3ebyPHkGUAF1DAFSVSj3XMY8jV8gd2ipj6bmR0Jht6JINehiLfbbgALle7fr1U6ed7/s1600/DSC_6718.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And ostriches enjoy them too.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzGnQffksCzZSA9tBx9m_l0mQtCyne22ChNleiV37siCzHUtITNCvi48t5OHFz1Ie27tgnBa7pUh7KaLoo13rOj_potcyrvZbJarnaRc1H30k5pIKaiE0eNHHf4hI-5unoxUf36gl0oitq/s1600/DSC_6774.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzGnQffksCzZSA9tBx9m_l0mQtCyne22ChNleiV37siCzHUtITNCvi48t5OHFz1Ie27tgnBa7pUh7KaLoo13rOj_potcyrvZbJarnaRc1H30k5pIKaiE0eNHHf4hI-5unoxUf36gl0oitq/s1600/DSC_6774.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where you least expect ...</td></tr>
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Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-91351384882673054912013-06-18T11:13:00.001-07:002013-07-14T07:44:20.014-07:00Conclusions<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1mPl1nUoPSyptuCQtKr_okgkoEFTJQZraYyl0Kt-PjS5Dx4Iqh0LTpxi66TxhkHBtsuSh9jPttPA_rODxsUwM-oOTyc45uFQtfWkFSFq1zPHnTWeMEwj2c5OEnU4bKVb7vkEijBY7M1_5/s1600/DSC_5310.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1mPl1nUoPSyptuCQtKr_okgkoEFTJQZraYyl0Kt-PjS5Dx4Iqh0LTpxi66TxhkHBtsuSh9jPttPA_rODxsUwM-oOTyc45uFQtfWkFSFq1zPHnTWeMEwj2c5OEnU4bKVb7vkEijBY7M1_5/s320/DSC_5310.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paper memories</td></tr>
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And so we are home. The boxes have been unpacked, the dogs quietened. Cars that had been parked for long have new batteries, and engines are turning again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd78OE0Qvr7QxxFQT1qi7K-Sb_OcMt1p-ZxTD0cVscllecuTTs6b26Q9OUEIidQzrIY-9R0nkP3DL7kE2deu4W03EzP734ws4DQHXSJk61CLYwR6J5IZaOg5daYaz6cKM7RQKtg8RAOGEu/s1600/DSC_4637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd78OE0Qvr7QxxFQT1qi7K-Sb_OcMt1p-ZxTD0cVscllecuTTs6b26Q9OUEIidQzrIY-9R0nkP3DL7kE2deu4W03EzP734ws4DQHXSJk61CLYwR6J5IZaOg5daYaz6cKM7RQKtg8RAOGEu/s320/DSC_4637.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Humour on the road</td></tr>
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After 6 425 kilometers, just over three weeks, an average speed of 54 km per hour, and 120 hours on the road we have some memories to work through.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1CQJ3uAoARfzWpd7D-Yr2O0-2YMiQQwY8N9YVFwJwSR_tBEhsIJsvyYToGuAikF3dkagFX9qhg9y5sXPhZHr5oxtq0_iqbP-zRHIfH5LFJtHB9WdiKnE-ggCtMUZq05flb0fHgSk7Y7Dq/s1600/DSC_4877.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1CQJ3uAoARfzWpd7D-Yr2O0-2YMiQQwY8N9YVFwJwSR_tBEhsIJsvyYToGuAikF3dkagFX9qhg9y5sXPhZHr5oxtq0_iqbP-zRHIfH5LFJtHB9WdiKnE-ggCtMUZq05flb0fHgSk7Y7Dq/s320/DSC_4877.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sailing in company</td></tr>
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People: We met some nice fellow voyagers, some great hosts, some people who are working hard to make a success of what they are doing, and many people who have great aspirations. Mozambique is going to boom, with the discovery of gas, and the Mozambique we saw will not be there in a few years. And maybe that is a good thing. Maybe sailing accross the bay in a lateen-rigged dhow is not the best way to travel. Maybe selling cashew nuts along the road is not a good occupation for a little boy and his sister.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzg5V2PtCLXPdvVLGLgm2jlvmggdesO6ul_E3tAsNap-Q4mDJTU14iP8-aV6xPKznE7r2bWSmbE5jZ_vovBHfXMZwryamN7Yn73OL-QCXEdY_Xv9Pk7Ns77jYqEeOAgLgGXcZ1kN81-I__/s1600/DSC_4852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzg5V2PtCLXPdvVLGLgm2jlvmggdesO6ul_E3tAsNap-Q4mDJTU14iP8-aV6xPKznE7r2bWSmbE5jZ_vovBHfXMZwryamN7Yn73OL-QCXEdY_Xv9Pk7Ns77jYqEeOAgLgGXcZ1kN81-I__/s320/DSC_4852.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's for you!</td></tr>
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Maybe Maria Carmen will have a school with computers, television appreciation and loud disco music. Maybe Ian and PJ will host oil executives, and not have to bother with overlanders. Will the friendship, the cameraderie and the smiles we encountered still be there?<br />
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Places: Stunning scenery, unspoilt beaches and coral reefs, the haunting magnificence of decay of the old Portuguese empire and the chaotic bustle of modern development.<br />
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Will the beaches still be as clean and quiet? Will the game reserves be better stocked, and the game less spooked? Will development bring better parks, a better appreciation for the wealth that is there?<br />
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Development must come, but will it be well planned?<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Wuy1mBiAIBrjqPyjC3pUumBMJtvzu1TlbDp-N5dP3xkovlpBNw9IyjZB-KK_3CrniIPMkDo3yClcbpCzUjPyB7t6lDPZA18zWgCg9C5uHr8jEmnTDYSpZZjfun1-FJXw_N7mRBERiXDV/s1600/DSC_4677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7Wuy1mBiAIBrjqPyjC3pUumBMJtvzu1TlbDp-N5dP3xkovlpBNw9IyjZB-KK_3CrniIPMkDo3yClcbpCzUjPyB7t6lDPZA18zWgCg9C5uHr8jEmnTDYSpZZjfun1-FJXw_N7mRBERiXDV/s320/DSC_4677.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy campers</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The Mozambique we were privileged to see will not be there a next time.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0IlSg4hs5UHroiINQ7iRBLvewCBh3bHgEeCmaYomnkr2_x9tHUEzNqAYTiq_ulIwq5Lhtrsj-xAu8g5xeA541OzCcRKZDGGY9zwY80_ZpYySG2hyphenhyphenqzZvH2mDUhwBoUW7VtWOVy7oZTfrM/s1600/DSC_4651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0IlSg4hs5UHroiINQ7iRBLvewCBh3bHgEeCmaYomnkr2_x9tHUEzNqAYTiq_ulIwq5Lhtrsj-xAu8g5xeA541OzCcRKZDGGY9zwY80_ZpYySG2hyphenhyphenqzZvH2mDUhwBoUW7VtWOVy7oZTfrM/s320/DSC_4651.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morning mist: will this time fade as fast?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
And yet ... the memories we have will remain, and will enrich our lives.Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-2570786991980017022013-06-18T10:50:00.002-07:002013-06-18T10:51:10.503-07:00The end is nigh! We are almost home!<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLpPgYzZ7MfMlTS2vfyzdqW9ltrTeXXm96m_UFxFIHVgowsRhpIC8_2hvLO7ealGjSOgyfzvg1yxk4vrYcdfcYLoT0IPujhakWCybPfQIbwE3hAQZpdIsstQnsEMaTZ2zsy8OT-25HLvow/s1600/DSC_5151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLpPgYzZ7MfMlTS2vfyzdqW9ltrTeXXm96m_UFxFIHVgowsRhpIC8_2hvLO7ealGjSOgyfzvg1yxk4vrYcdfcYLoT0IPujhakWCybPfQIbwE3hAQZpdIsstQnsEMaTZ2zsy8OT-25HLvow/s320/DSC_5151.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gorongosa baboon and Sable antelope</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US">We have had a few long days on the road
now, and also some nice surprises. Our night in the Gorongosa park was good,
and we might have been tempted to return, but they wanted us to pay R 400 to
use our own car and fuel to go watch the game. No.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"> The camp site was good, not
too expensive, and we did see monkeys, baboons and sable antelope on the way in
and out. It is good to see the park being developed, but we were wondering
about the economic model. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US">Should conservation be a money generating
activity, or should it be a subsidized activity? Should Hollywood stars be
fleeced of $ 4000 per night, and nature become impossibly expensive for the
rest of us? We understood that they are trying to create employment and we saw
teams of workers laboriously fixing the roads, which could have been done faster
and for less money by using a grader. Is employment generation not a separate
activity? Would it not be better creating productive jobs on farms or in
factories? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisqGFvqDhUjKQdXlVfpnURxpCXhGSyq0JxUMKJmso9685h7STytdubem0ccRcbSPVWLdG2MWedL8NCi4i4CrR-_fbs_XYZ0a61C1kIK7DcYWfE40fL0lAbKImvsQUshPswZ-8KUeneMu9K/s1600/DSC_5205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisqGFvqDhUjKQdXlVfpnURxpCXhGSyq0JxUMKJmso9685h7STytdubem0ccRcbSPVWLdG2MWedL8NCi4i4CrR-_fbs_XYZ0a61C1kIK7DcYWfE40fL0lAbKImvsQUshPswZ-8KUeneMu9K/s320/DSC_5205.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Have you ever seen rocks like this?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisqGFvqDhUjKQdXlVfpnURxpCXhGSyq0JxUMKJmso9685h7STytdubem0ccRcbSPVWLdG2MWedL8NCi4i4CrR-_fbs_XYZ0a61C1kIK7DcYWfE40fL0lAbKImvsQUshPswZ-8KUeneMu9K/s1600/DSC_5205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Then we headed for the border, running long
the Beira-Harare railway line. We saw many heavy trucks, and the remains of
railway villages, including an imposing station and shunting yards, but not
much in the line of trains. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Checking out of Mozambique was fast and
pleasant, except for the toilets! Crossing into Zim was also quite fast, but
the attitude was less pleasant. We were engulfed by people offering their
services to make the entry ‘fast-fast’ but we disappointed them, although one
guy did offer us the free use of his pen!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT_TMDyaUUEh8syx6VnNmrZGzVcg9LD819_BIQLW1zSEiWhBiWnu47JhjeFT3XBWVerA8ik4tXNYna0H2xVQXCnWoNkjDuR1WBrFqIdUh-XPk55P6G66IePFOUkHhQQ-px80p2wEWia9E6/s1600/DSC_5179.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT_TMDyaUUEh8syx6VnNmrZGzVcg9LD819_BIQLW1zSEiWhBiWnu47JhjeFT3XBWVerA8ik4tXNYna0H2xVQXCnWoNkjDuR1WBrFqIdUh-XPk55P6G66IePFOUkHhQQ-px80p2wEWia9E6/s320/DSC_5179.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White Horse Inn in the Vumba mountains - a real treat!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">That night we slept in the White Horse Inn,
a lovely old world establishment in the Vumba mountains. It was our first cold
night, and we huddled in the lounge next to the fire, eagerly using their WiFi
to catch up on our mails.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Then we tackled the road into Harare, and
wondered at the many road blocks and check points. We were usually waved
through, except at one point where we were told that our temporary vehicle
import permit had expired, despite it having been issued the day before! By
mid-afternoon we were at Jo and Peter, and settled down to two nights of
domestic comfort, good food, relaxation and good company. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMextBZEs-9-9WOD7fZqiCFmA-qJ1B3FWoBn_y84sKRrfNpPAPIMkp3-DicZyN7QDmp-l1w87hX25i9mPPckrjBAUrfzVLM2uRf1XSLwhTt8ewggzFsgh4hIuDqIwNgcx0Q3R5CAKAR6bl/s1600/DSC_5217.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMextBZEs-9-9WOD7fZqiCFmA-qJ1B3FWoBn_y84sKRrfNpPAPIMkp3-DicZyN7QDmp-l1w87hX25i9mPPckrjBAUrfzVLM2uRf1XSLwhTt8ewggzFsgh4hIuDqIwNgcx0Q3R5CAKAR6bl/s320/DSC_5217.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good friends, great hospitality</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The Cruiser was treated to a top-up of
gearbox oil, a cursory inspection of the spark plugs, and a replacement of the
windscreen wiper clips. There is some play in the steering tie-rod arms,
another item on our list of jobs to be done. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">And then another 700 km run south, with
careful adherence to illogical and sometimes difficult to decipher speed controls,
until we clocked in at Beit Bridge. Checking out was fast, except for a customs
officer with no uniform or identification who told us he was going to have us
unpack everything, unless we made it worth his while. We pointed out that after
such a long trip we were out of food, out of beer, out of money….<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWTi3rDsF49eReunXJCbBEAVp4m5dF518sgiUpUTTLwj6xSzYu8ZJFe4H36A2-OdlkI0yCYHlJGVgzriUPzpjchfYwlYzyekXOSjWcVicUBLMzm6qIhv42FhzeHVTdppCRWRlf-o7EvHEV/s1600/DSC_5272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWTi3rDsF49eReunXJCbBEAVp4m5dF518sgiUpUTTLwj6xSzYu8ZJFe4H36A2-OdlkI0yCYHlJGVgzriUPzpjchfYwlYzyekXOSjWcVicUBLMzm6qIhv42FhzeHVTdppCRWRlf-o7EvHEV/s320/DSC_5272.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last campsite: Tshipise</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">On the South African side we encountered a
tide of people trying to enter Zimbabwe, and eventually discovered that we
should not go to the Entry hall, but to the unmarked one next to it. All went
fast, although there was a real absence of indications as to where we should go
and what should be presented when. Then we hit a few shops, and by sundown were
setting camp in Tshipise. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Unfortunately the place was rather full,
and we chose a site next to the main road, trusting that the traffic would
become less at night. Not so!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWYqQXAxi3U46_trz5ddxUfyVME8kf8W9kkoQM4hG13iyUT7Ct6_JVD4ae9aHAs0tgVAS0oeWQuuIRsYRz1oMSYHhmSxU0h4YppHzRpeUCjeLHxAXaxhlBmU3ytv2747p213xXdA124f0H/s1600/DSC_5300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWYqQXAxi3U46_trz5ddxUfyVME8kf8W9kkoQM4hG13iyUT7Ct6_JVD4ae9aHAs0tgVAS0oeWQuuIRsYRz1oMSYHhmSxU0h4YppHzRpeUCjeLHxAXaxhlBmU3ytv2747p213xXdA124f0H/s320/DSC_5300.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Voyagers being steamed to perfection!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Lorraine joined us on Saturday for the last
nights of our voyage, and we relished the warm waters, although it was a little
difficult getting out into the biting wind! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">What did we get from the voyage? Many
beautiful memories, many nice photos, and some good experiences. I will
remember the people we met, from Senhora Chinanha in Ilha Mozambique, who is
building a future for herself and her daughter by sheer determination and hard
work, fellow travelers who joined in our feast at the Baobab in Vilanculos, PJ
and Ian at Libelula in Nacala. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Reinhard felt that the visit to Ilha de
Mozambique was the high point of the voyage, Shahnaz felt the diving was her
best memory, and Lorraine felt that overcoming her fears to discover snorkeling
at Bazaruto was the memory she would cherish. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHSOsNHmWKH3Nybc-rpHqpT5ZQ7J2XL666nMCl9VQkUqdv8p30HUQ3tDBST6U3o2-qMhDGM2WvVGNYcOYYnD4PHn83drGqW5tkfzpE87dwsH2VsfoOcMMWXh-cvzvmcEy_A4x5IQS6yNZF/s1600/DSC_5304.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHSOsNHmWKH3Nybc-rpHqpT5ZQ7J2XL666nMCl9VQkUqdv8p30HUQ3tDBST6U3o2-qMhDGM2WvVGNYcOYYnD4PHn83drGqW5tkfzpE87dwsH2VsfoOcMMWXh-cvzvmcEy_A4x5IQS6yNZF/s320/DSC_5304.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh the road is long!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Tomorrow we pack up, and head home, another
600 km to where the temperatures are said to be around 4 degrees. Maybe we
should just turn around and head north again?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-7187461318923046642013-06-10T09:55:00.000-07:002013-06-10T09:55:46.875-07:00Turning south<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwNinDKUl-hP0lJ0MqP8qAiDTM-DRG0mhuV29rPE79XyC0go2RR7yP-uAzVUkRPa7HI8NLy4tO9UeXY20YCrlp7DcJukjPIrJleUvtnjIEx3hMXDu38hcGrBOddvqSulJQl-Q5oY-ihTBw/s1600/DSC_4950.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwNinDKUl-hP0lJ0MqP8qAiDTM-DRG0mhuV29rPE79XyC0go2RR7yP-uAzVUkRPa7HI8NLy4tO9UeXY20YCrlp7DcJukjPIrJleUvtnjIEx3hMXDu38hcGrBOddvqSulJQl-Q5oY-ihTBw/s320/DSC_4950.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ilha Mozambique dreaming in the setting<br />
sun about past glories </td></tr>
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We have turned south now, and we are almost a thousand
kilometers down the road on our way home, dodging potholes in the Zambezi
valley while searching for 2G internet connection. The Gorongosa is supposed to
be one of the last places where development had not arrived, and roadside
vendors do offer freshly skinned antelope, smoked ribs of some unknown animal,
and demonstrate road repair activities before requesting a handout. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">No, we did not make it to Egypt!</td></tr>
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Already we are feeling the ‘end-of-voyage’ blues: a mild
regret at what we had not seen, anticipation at the luxuries of warm water and
our own beds. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS4PkKYmAkGVyJxhC1lVSY_hAa8u7Wyx8EerbTX2fpzvUmScEowSPEN6Y-7v0CyuZ5UngXId-N-5feD4DAucdmgVQZKAl9_22E1tf-XUGt6LQo2fzvHP_vSPOqDCY0md2NmGrboMWRgg1j/s1600/DSC_5007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS4PkKYmAkGVyJxhC1lVSY_hAa8u7Wyx8EerbTX2fpzvUmScEowSPEN6Y-7v0CyuZ5UngXId-N-5feD4DAucdmgVQZKAl9_22E1tf-XUGt6LQo2fzvHP_vSPOqDCY0md2NmGrboMWRgg1j/s320/DSC_5007.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nacala traffic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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We hope to sleep in the Gorongosa park tonight, and we think
back already about the long road we had covered. Ilha Mozambique was the high
point for me, although the leaf fish in Nacala bay, just after we had seen a
container ship enter may also be symbolic. We had singing sessions on the road,
with the Cruiser humming along, we had dinners of fresh seafood, and we had
pleasant surprises of people trying to make a living in this hard, yet
bounteous land. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGJ_CmE-Xp4aJwJaUugzvUEYp5GK0YHFQ5pX8Kdd8ZGqd4Y_PcAvTAQ_-zLahCBKvz5CFXsaHBBUwhzACqw6TYOyt5PqlGTYVfkcVpq1goxpwx0TsmUFlHXQcJ1h9-K3rVQxzNhqapTfOo/s1600/DSC_5010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGJ_CmE-Xp4aJwJaUugzvUEYp5GK0YHFQ5pX8Kdd8ZGqd4Y_PcAvTAQ_-zLahCBKvz5CFXsaHBBUwhzACqw6TYOyt5PqlGTYVfkcVpq1goxpwx0TsmUFlHXQcJ1h9-K3rVQxzNhqapTfOo/s320/DSC_5010.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Libelula dinner</td></tr>
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A touch of regret at everything we did not see: We did not
stay on Bazaruto longer. If my Microsoft lottery money had come through we
could have stayed in a lodge there … We did not see the rock paintings near
Nampula, we did not go further north to dive at Pemba… Maybe there will be a
next time. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Now we are doing long stretches: 800 kilometers the day
before yesterday, 400 yesterday, 350 today. Tomorrow not so far to the Zim
border, then the next day <o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGbBDB6aC1H8OWl7UEWu8kNGZCin5yn_kguQ89egPh3CQ8YyB1IW3UfS42eg7Y-GfUW0MVwwEn_KEmDx44bznJDyyxpuUGpO8_Zy5FUQWx5yNwtkvAcC9iWqD9h9I2-0IiwJSSnz3MXD8E/s1600/DSC_5013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGbBDB6aC1H8OWl7UEWu8kNGZCin5yn_kguQ89egPh3CQ8YyB1IW3UfS42eg7Y-GfUW0MVwwEn_KEmDx44bznJDyyxpuUGpO8_Zy5FUQWx5yNwtkvAcC9iWqD9h9I2-0IiwJSSnz3MXD8E/s320/DSC_5013.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nacala: Smart coffee shop in the dust and traffic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi11bbBjnbcxdVq9zWFjYvAobZLvEiPpyfdH3aCHiwShMcVHK5N78byyWxmH-scilGTRYY-CFWhs8o9oULa4vnGFC81BZoaM1jmL_gsaYytaopP-Biuul8rs2waASZFQC0fvq_pn-LA38qH/s1600/DSC_5089.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi11bbBjnbcxdVq9zWFjYvAobZLvEiPpyfdH3aCHiwShMcVHK5N78byyWxmH-scilGTRYY-CFWhs8o9oULa4vnGFC81BZoaM1jmL_gsaYytaopP-Biuul8rs2waASZFQC0fvq_pn-LA38qH/s320/DSC_5089.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Do you know this guy?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwE4rZbkD-F3fu8EOSuF875HRPKXiFBLvJSQjCPFJSeZ9HJggamcN5DKn8ee6Mt3CXdsSrELbtx-m76l-_ubbua1N42SOZKZIgDQyHk88luEfi71m7SO9-H4DcU6WAmc45Lijjex5Mqjwh/s1600/DSC_5099.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwE4rZbkD-F3fu8EOSuF875HRPKXiFBLvJSQjCPFJSeZ9HJggamcN5DKn8ee6Mt3CXdsSrELbtx-m76l-_ubbua1N42SOZKZIgDQyHk88luEfi71m7SO9-H4DcU6WAmc45Lijjex5Mqjwh/s320/DSC_5099.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dalmann forest camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGRySEn3HUv0-WwV7GZZb4HkOx1XlmxqzIKeEq22TQeZhlTd5Lyg-joWEL8pAosbFUlS85ZRrw4MegB415SUSLr0nPXG32aBDvFZLacWnErgnEYHTBKyYXjdLHDnyRtmhd32_iqK6-1oM/s1600/DSC_5126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYGRySEn3HUv0-WwV7GZZb4HkOx1XlmxqzIKeEq22TQeZhlTd5Lyg-joWEL8pAosbFUlS85ZRrw4MegB415SUSLr0nPXG32aBDvFZLacWnErgnEYHTBKyYXjdLHDnyRtmhd32_iqK6-1oM/s320/DSC_5126.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fireside memories</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
on to Harare. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5dfBlzcrT5PvB7ChJmGQSBaJPxK27vJQGy-bpFuSKX_KQQ6_SOJGP_qgSTbKZU06FZLsKrCIUuj8ai8wPHPMBz8TFz-K0haBQNrYi-oxMD72Bv0jHI_CZz6uY_U_zi3SRltfKW05Z4OD/s1600/DSC_5094.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-5dfBlzcrT5PvB7ChJmGQSBaJPxK27vJQGy-bpFuSKX_KQQ6_SOJGP_qgSTbKZU06FZLsKrCIUuj8ai8wPHPMBz8TFz-K0haBQNrYi-oxMD72Bv0jHI_CZz6uY_U_zi3SRltfKW05Z4OD/s320/DSC_5094.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Venus guest house:<br />
it's not what you think!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The Cruiser feels the need for some loving care, the
sparkplugs are a little dirty and she misses when she is idling. A screw had
come out on the left light assembly, I managed to replace that today. And as
the rain started the windscreen wipers fell off! Beware: Never let night
watchmen wash your car! Try to find new ones in the middle of the Gorongosa! I
bodged a repair with epoxy putty, if that does not work I have cable ties
handy, and I have just designed the ultimate adjustable, never to be worn out
windscreen wiper fitting!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So, till next time!<o:p></o:p></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-71083359598097597522013-06-04T11:24:00.001-07:002013-06-04T11:24:46.248-07:00Thalassa! The sea!
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcAESs0VH-dVlWVN_rpCigXyMFapjsTCfKHdwzvW_IoVw9LLDSBEQRp8hEausc_a7ixHPI5zWVstjay8BM7ZRrpWSHLwytH1A6gIhEdu0n7EfV0YWb_Y0sBtl1C9wnsVyiZRiLVC0PwkLr/s1600/DSC_4725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcAESs0VH-dVlWVN_rpCigXyMFapjsTCfKHdwzvW_IoVw9LLDSBEQRp8hEausc_a7ixHPI5zWVstjay8BM7ZRrpWSHLwytH1A6gIhEdu0n7EfV0YWb_Y0sBtl1C9wnsVyiZRiLVC0PwkLr/s320/DSC_4725.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rocks near Nampula</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
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We had a weary time of it: more than a thousand kilometers
through the uplands of Mozambique, to a dusty, dreary hotel on the outskirts of
Nampula, and then down through magnificent rock outcropping and land with
magnificent agricultural potential, until we began to see the palm trees and
the dunes. Soon we saw the salt marshes, and then the long causeway out to Ilha
Mozambique.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6JxrpJ-caSKWD6nzCGwIi8aA-bNeuLFXhue0h0JIJfr0GUZWE5I6f5LoZN7Auj-XcdVoY7I2_7o1AuX29pNoT7xQR4Jbbs-FH69pLkwV6FBbxejE3lj_CwPiqy56mOmYfN9K-5ufJCbQE/s1600/DSC_4838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6JxrpJ-caSKWD6nzCGwIi8aA-bNeuLFXhue0h0JIJfr0GUZWE5I6f5LoZN7Auj-XcdVoY7I2_7o1AuX29pNoT7xQR4Jbbs-FH69pLkwV6FBbxejE3lj_CwPiqy56mOmYfN9K-5ufJCbQE/s320/DSC_4838.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dhows still trade and fish in these waters</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
This is where the Arab traders had an outpost, only to be
pushed off by the Portuguese. Here we saw the oldest Christian Church in the
southern hemisphere! You can just wonder at the perseverance of the early
mariners who, after a sea journey of months, with bad food and little water,
stopped here, built up the fort by hand, traded and bargained, defended the
position against English and Dutch, and then sailed on to India. We had it
easy!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm6kTEshv31DwhE9Jxkaqh9QD8ZMtjHO3YL7SBKJ05e488p7H0yZlgeN1m2ybQPVYvUyDCwZm7bpX6RXA2rcmNhavtddV9_44E1LpxXY-uaSaRK4yyccrf2oFB4zZtwZ6hiLiGr7uYGEg5/s1600/DSC_4845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm6kTEshv31DwhE9Jxkaqh9QD8ZMtjHO3YL7SBKJ05e488p7H0yZlgeN1m2ybQPVYvUyDCwZm7bpX6RXA2rcmNhavtddV9_44E1LpxXY-uaSaRK4yyccrf2oFB4zZtwZ6hiLiGr7uYGEg5/s320/DSC_4845.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome!</td></tr>
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The island is a World Heritage site, and well it should be. Some
magnificent old buildings had been restored, one could imagine the cost, and
many are in the process of restoration. Now if the nice Nigerian gentleman
transfers my Microsoft lottery money, I might just consider buying a little
palazzo here, and doing it up as it must have been in the time of the
Portuguese.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
And then we are off to Nacala, where a major deep-water port
is going up around the oil money, the development corridor going up to
Mozambique, but where the leaf fish is still said to frolic in the coastal
waters.</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQogSPMmxu0l-4KT-5lDySdnOYN98XvCgfrprbEiO3lWGECFgSyjL5vNSxL5NO_r2lXVZ0MMG3AzzcG_bsfUsDcngRFRaWDzqNQHyARVzEYzhaGv-XAYMq5e3IOMxTDkrD2yPwFi002mR3/s1600/DSC_4861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQogSPMmxu0l-4KT-5lDySdnOYN98XvCgfrprbEiO3lWGECFgSyjL5vNSxL5NO_r2lXVZ0MMG3AzzcG_bsfUsDcngRFRaWDzqNQHyARVzEYzhaGv-XAYMq5e3IOMxTDkrD2yPwFi002mR3/s320/DSC_4861.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This might be a little over the top ...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCTc3yDc5-4bjGP_D0n3akxtroIF0afW_NOK0NiQPIl6UAM0oKT6IXcSxPxjvaoJ8_gS4u6T48g4pA4AHS3YMx8g3R2WNVXjdlEgW4XMVJNnwBrhiEZ1o_ZSLRbReLcRbWT8qptVG2ePcr/s1600/DSC_4899.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCTc3yDc5-4bjGP_D0n3akxtroIF0afW_NOK0NiQPIl6UAM0oKT6IXcSxPxjvaoJ8_gS4u6T48g4pA4AHS3YMx8g3R2WNVXjdlEgW4XMVJNnwBrhiEZ1o_ZSLRbReLcRbWT8qptVG2ePcr/s320/DSC_4899.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This church was built in 1522!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNUZU2Xb4UkQY3_xuo0ciJ4BSNF6_YM3hCNyI1DiSVW81At0xEJE1U8hnazCwjfK6yPEWqLDZoejQICNFmUtafSEsCotsjAcezhdQO4PApK3Y4phl5-PCo2eeUpn795Z22QpBHFm_GpXIN/s1600/DSC_4932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNUZU2Xb4UkQY3_xuo0ciJ4BSNF6_YM3hCNyI1DiSVW81At0xEJE1U8hnazCwjfK6yPEWqLDZoejQICNFmUtafSEsCotsjAcezhdQO4PApK3Y4phl5-PCo2eeUpn795Z22QpBHFm_GpXIN/s320/DSC_4932.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What about a fixer-upper like this?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeUIhMWv-rmY9EhmJMQgIFY1PcHdRnRdHD5-g8kIEVqqNP9lfUY73eMkU8Cl2m7MzelXwlgtw_wEYsQbqr76TSNjzy_jaiSYkpIeaWDydSmo5uZ956p-VBAtseQUwuWwuaGYnCfHpb3HXw/s1600/DSC_4935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeUIhMWv-rmY9EhmJMQgIFY1PcHdRnRdHD5-g8kIEVqqNP9lfUY73eMkU8Cl2m7MzelXwlgtw_wEYsQbqr76TSNjzy_jaiSYkpIeaWDydSmo5uZ956p-VBAtseQUwuWwuaGYnCfHpb3HXw/s320/DSC_4935.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This has potential!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<!--EndFragment-->Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-31037230546650731652013-06-04T06:11:00.001-07:002013-06-04T06:12:03.280-07:00The pull of the road<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Working on the road</td></tr>
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We left Vilanculos with no clear plan for our trip to
Nampula, except that we would not like to drive in the dark. The kilometers up
to Inchope seemed to stretch as we approached, and it is known that things
expand in the midday heat. The Inchope filling station told of an excellent
hostelry just a few kilometers down the road to Zimbabwe, but we thought that
this would take us off our track, and Nampula was still far, far away.
Gorongosa sounded much more interesting. There is always the hope of something
better, just over the next hill!</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXNQ0Uf8JkjZkwcwaWxXv1-xjV3zz8P2e_StxYa3jffxRqG9f6mK3TKzDgWR0PfNr_Tb7TMStfqCHqlfbclQTQLIS4d9DKdEwxxLeePUU5_Cwr8gEgg17hE97yYUmhHYsHs6JutvJftsEt/s1600/DSC_4680.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXNQ0Uf8JkjZkwcwaWxXv1-xjV3zz8P2e_StxYa3jffxRqG9f6mK3TKzDgWR0PfNr_Tb7TMStfqCHqlfbclQTQLIS4d9DKdEwxxLeePUU5_Cwr8gEgg17hE97yYUmhHYsHs6JutvJftsEt/s320/DSC_4680.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Travellers share a feast</td></tr>
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At the entrance to the Gorongosa park an expensive-looking signboard
announced luxury lodgings, but also camping, but that was twenty kilometers and
more out of our way. We tried phoning to get prices, but received no reply.
Gorongosa town, only another thirty klicks down our road, promised hotels, and
there they were. The best we could find had no windows, and a party was brewing
up next door, but the price was fixed at 2 000 Mts. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Our map promised lodging and camping at the Mountain inn,
and we even had GPS references! But references come and go, and truck drivers
bargaining for a few goats had never heard of an inn in that area. The best
thing, they advised, was to press on another two hours, but the road was bad. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Night set in, and we grasped at every light we saw, while
dodging most of the potholes. At eight we had decided that we would find the
next small road turning off, and sleep in the car, because we would have more
than six hundred kilometers to do the next day. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwwmeA9XfdUKN4scLdjeb1v4AZiKPlS0_-1Z-OBa5Im8Z-eAn5jijKN1ehIqtWt9fCggGlY7o9pq_qziULZPmR-UbcRKc3Id_Bk2EtOxop_oDXNZjJV5y1GTWfirIo5743f84kGTdrwbRl/s1600/DSC_4716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwwmeA9XfdUKN4scLdjeb1v4AZiKPlS0_-1Z-OBa5Im8Z-eAn5jijKN1ehIqtWt9fCggGlY7o9pq_qziULZPmR-UbcRKc3Id_Bk2EtOxop_oDXNZjJV5y1GTWfirIo5743f84kGTdrwbRl/s320/DSC_4716.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Forestry accommodation</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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And then we saw it: A sign advertising a sawmill with a
restaurant and accommodation! Life out of colonial Africa, simple and tasteful.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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And we wondered: Do we not always get drawn on and on by hopes
of a better future over the next horizon? And, sometimes, that better future is
there!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdpFfeEM2TQcqf5cS-cD3GMW3cRBODCgroVw7diiR-RShMxeofmHNNMIU_uVI3Yoiu7BUdaigd4ombjEmlIlOInl_CuYz-TBHbkiudLon_hWEuJ5x7TvbwxdWuuF5AMMPOF4ISSYNYe30s/s1600/DSC_4658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdpFfeEM2TQcqf5cS-cD3GMW3cRBODCgroVw7diiR-RShMxeofmHNNMIU_uVI3Yoiu7BUdaigd4ombjEmlIlOInl_CuYz-TBHbkiudLon_hWEuJ5x7TvbwxdWuuF5AMMPOF4ISSYNYe30s/s320/DSC_4658.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vilanculos shipbuilding</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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This remote part of Mozambique has its signs of neglect:
potholed roads, small, poor villages next to the road. But there are many
smiling, happy people here, people who welcome strangers with no diffidence,
just a wide, welcoming smile, an effort to understand our halting Portuguese,
and a willingness to help. Even the soldiers stopping us seem embarrassed to
ask if we had brought them something. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The people here hope that the discovery of gas will bring
them a better future. Maybe the young boy who helped his even younger sister to
sell us roasted cashew nuts, and then shyly asked if we had sweets for them,
will wear a suit, and be an oil industry accountant. We wish that their hopes
will also be answered by more than they expect.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3P4-kEmXciVEXavNhSAg5yvxJTuRgPHNLRGKStKJavDbbCMvmA5GR_yaiTmED195nIKIiXbAelrUFaOIeb5TKXF_rOOLPSfvmMt8bWnyPr3bnPbRhZYsZFXTIh6ypgG20lYxr1UhrDYG/s1600/DSC_4665.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL3P4-kEmXciVEXavNhSAg5yvxJTuRgPHNLRGKStKJavDbbCMvmA5GR_yaiTmED195nIKIiXbAelrUFaOIeb5TKXF_rOOLPSfvmMt8bWnyPr3bnPbRhZYsZFXTIh6ypgG20lYxr1UhrDYG/s320/DSC_4665.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vilanculos airport: one of us had to go back to slavery!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<!--EndFragment-->Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-36756897850351753202013-05-30T02:57:00.002-07:002013-05-30T02:58:09.914-07:00Baobab musings<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvcy7f-hfmX8VpKubZDVoYSQIC9DQa9-ecyrFywIQiCMYpLjMsARSLbQApNeiQehCDip1cE1w_ETlV2Pk4Jkn_J77llqfyrgX83Kcr-OT5s5BVicf5Af3wtBHaxcy37btlL4B0uwxmMAYt/s1600/DSC04021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvcy7f-hfmX8VpKubZDVoYSQIC9DQa9-ecyrFywIQiCMYpLjMsARSLbQApNeiQehCDip1cE1w_ETlV2Pk4Jkn_J77llqfyrgX83Kcr-OT5s5BVicf5Af3wtBHaxcy37btlL4B0uwxmMAYt/s320/DSC04021.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tofo divers</td></tr>
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<br />
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Our time at Zawahake in Tofo passed quickly. We had some
good dives, several lovely dinners on fresh seafood, and some nice relaxation.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Paulinho helped me disassemble the freewheel hub, and
diagnosed that “the spring is not in a good place. ”We did find that the spring
was not hooked up, but no amount of coaxing could get it to do its job. So
Nelson had to come and help. He disassembled, reassembled, and shook his head.
Soon an old rusty unit from a Cruiser that lives on the beach was brought, and
we could see: the spring was tightly coiled, allowing the locking mechanism to
be withdrawn fully. A quick substitution, and by the time we had reassembled
and tested my car Nelson had bent the bad spring into a good shape, and I am
sure the donor Cruiser is functioning as it should.<o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwkb966Koe2yrx7dX8n1834PGFK84sJzc-KoO7GwEUPE0IGv88a83fOVh7Nm71erUOhsCClIjhMBGtuAU5tSPQwDj5jHAONcLRj953r7QOmKGOkhfdtdT2tdk7DffmJidfiXaIbebjtDun/s1600/DSC_4447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwkb966Koe2yrx7dX8n1834PGFK84sJzc-KoO7GwEUPE0IGv88a83fOVh7Nm71erUOhsCClIjhMBGtuAU5tSPQwDj5jHAONcLRj953r7QOmKGOkhfdtdT2tdk7DffmJidfiXaIbebjtDun/s320/DSC_4447.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prawn curry in the making</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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Then we started packing up, and hit the road to Vilanculos,
stopping off to buy the Piri-piri sauce indicated on the map. <o:p></o:p></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJyrwTuA17RS7E4RphZoyigVKgVA4sq3VYfHVKhofWGL_BvofiV0eLMwq3FT7bseSBicfw-hCEYeg5TBxFbSp-aiPEzP1N-taomJ-iPL3bQCkIoyfPjbtaC5k4zTsK7BQ3sNy5dz2zC0zU/s1600/DSC_4480.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJyrwTuA17RS7E4RphZoyigVKgVA4sq3VYfHVKhofWGL_BvofiV0eLMwq3FT7bseSBicfw-hCEYeg5TBxFbSp-aiPEzP1N-taomJ-iPL3bQCkIoyfPjbtaC5k4zTsK7BQ3sNy5dz2zC0zU/s320/DSC_4480.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vilankulos beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4PJCuKQsjGXeuoV7lohsQpi4Ajv8q0BKUy60UGtY3tr6YCdrsy0TwkVAgnspT5XMGLO48FNATggC0jv6rJT9KJFla_6wYKZp4WsMJbpb_JNxW-Dc2j-REFf_jmmGVCwJoUFFklx0QjQJI/s1600/DSC_4496.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4PJCuKQsjGXeuoV7lohsQpi4Ajv8q0BKUy60UGtY3tr6YCdrsy0TwkVAgnspT5XMGLO48FNATggC0jv6rJT9KJFla_6wYKZp4WsMJbpb_JNxW-Dc2j-REFf_jmmGVCwJoUFFklx0QjQJI/s320/DSC_4496.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baobab backpackers</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Vilanculos is a dusty town, teeming with people of all
sizes, and a fascinating beach life. Fishing dhows return on the evening land
breeze, women congregate to bargain for the catch, rinse it in the sea, and
carry it home in triumph, stray dogs following hopefully. A place where one
could live, provided that you have an internet connection! Or keep a boat.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We took a trip across the vast, but shallow lagoon to
Bazaruto island, and had a lovely snorkel session at a pristine reef, like the
ones you see on post cards. Madame decided to go diving, despite the high
prices and the attitude of the nearby dive center, while we will charge everything
that we have to charge, and catch up on this blog.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt4-Vxun_jWaLiA2l5H2P_SaTwXh3rpWwt8kFtnjHa6GjQWZciIPzqZ34Sm8UoU8zFAK805mqfDff29jiCfJLUvYShOdq_h6nN2Djn8MYMWiOYomJowZCsOBJdWxgYqDObtAiLfvEf2eML/s1600/DSC_4551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt4-Vxun_jWaLiA2l5H2P_SaTwXh3rpWwt8kFtnjHa6GjQWZciIPzqZ34Sm8UoU8zFAK805mqfDff29jiCfJLUvYShOdq_h6nN2Djn8MYMWiOYomJowZCsOBJdWxgYqDObtAiLfvEf2eML/s320/DSC_4551.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinner at the Baobab!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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We also met fellow travelers: Two girls from Greenland and,
no, they were not green! Nice people, and a pair of Aussies making their way
around in a bakkie they rented in Durban: he moonlights as a chiropractor and
acupuncturist, she writes. A German couple who bought a Nissan Patrol on the
Internet, and are now at the end of a six month 20 000 km voyage around
Southern Africa and suffering from re-entry anxiety. He has a job as oil
geologist to go back to, she has to find a space in the UN system again. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYtvj6F4Ccscze4r2S9dI-bQ43kZACnmdfm8HglTj3WptEprgu-hpqascb99oBnqC0N3o42l0Yr1bloQjOJZqfSxzVqbxZoceO-SSB7Xspe3PfuHxfqNf2jvL-dOrWcq5j3s40cakjf1B2/s1600/DSC_4600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYtvj6F4Ccscze4r2S9dI-bQ43kZACnmdfm8HglTj3WptEprgu-hpqascb99oBnqC0N3o42l0Yr1bloQjOJZqfSxzVqbxZoceO-SSB7Xspe3PfuHxfqNf2jvL-dOrWcq5j3s40cakjf1B2/s320/DSC_4600.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bazaruto beach girl</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Food has been an interesting part of our voyage so far. At
Xai-xai we had fried calamari, but I had my doubts afterwards about the
integrity of the oil. At Zona Braza we enjoyed crayfish, oysters and red fish,
all fresh from the ea. At Zawahake we had prawns, Bully beef stew, and pasta! And
in Vilanculos we had barracuda grilled, prawns and chips, chicken in tomato
stew, and goat stew. A recipe book is under consideration.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKPo9SHGEULMbyRqYyYMnVFV3gl5fVonLSfa5O93uXQsFQ-gVG6Tpva1OFzFQ06xjmOVoiPDLOq0Ir8t1Arl5AqeIfnJef8gET8AEX9Qo99wWi83tPdFSBaEW3b5IgUsFBhOccpplWq2z-/s1600/DSC_4628.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKPo9SHGEULMbyRqYyYMnVFV3gl5fVonLSfa5O93uXQsFQ-gVG6Tpva1OFzFQ06xjmOVoiPDLOq0Ir8t1Arl5AqeIfnJef8gET8AEX9Qo99wWi83tPdFSBaEW3b5IgUsFBhOccpplWq2z-/s320/DSC_4628.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prawns and chips anyone?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<!--EndFragment-->Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-76921278833291921532013-05-26T11:19:00.001-07:002013-05-26T11:19:27.583-07:00We wasted an hour and stayed two days
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The road has thrown us up at the Tofo peninsula off
Inhambabe after an interesting, and adventurous peregrination. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TxK86bqyAYSHfjB-S2dsG3bR6L_ALUnN1B7FtRRSwcq-0IAGtATxuaBiSEW6VySIiEBE1k4Z8y0q4H-GFSTbXs_BHDwbc02hvyHQJBdeMkT4aGtZpulxdKEU44pRyCdp8aRRuX9ej3r5/s1600/What+to+take+and+what+to+leave+....jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6TxK86bqyAYSHfjB-S2dsG3bR6L_ALUnN1B7FtRRSwcq-0IAGtATxuaBiSEW6VySIiEBE1k4Z8y0q4H-GFSTbXs_BHDwbc02hvyHQJBdeMkT4aGtZpulxdKEU44pRyCdp8aRRuX9ej3r5/s320/What+to+take+and+what+to+leave+....jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What to take, what to leave ...</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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First we blasted out of Pretoria at oh dark thirty, to beat
the traffic and to make as many kilometers as we could. Only to discover, after
half an hour, that we had forgotten the all-important car papers at home. So we
turned back, to the delight, and then dismay of the dogs …<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Pietersburg, Magoebaskloof and Tzaneen brought back many
memories, and sooner than we had expected we were in Phalaborwa, and into the
Kruger Park. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dogs do not like packing</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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A few kilometers of disappointment was followed by a
sighting of a family of giraffes, and then a herd of elephants, urgently going
their way on some important elephant business, hurrying through the bush,
bypassing the water hole, and grabbing a bite here and there, before
disappearing. Near Letaba a magnificent tusker deigned to allow us a photo. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Next morning we were at Giriyondo gate at 08h30, and checked
through with the assistance of pleasant people, even the Mozambican military,
who offered not to let us unpack the car for inspection if we could offer a few
beers. Instead we began to untie and unpack, to their dismay, and they sent us
on our way. On the Mozambican side of
the park we saw the rare two-headed giraffe, and many cattl, more than outside
the park. Can you run a park like this?<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb7Ko9O7uHQMrXI0ZhuXGmV3Hh9qsYfKWJslwSlqn4ULQEHJ0b8kHiFLjIJgUif5InVUzfOtmLpSJ1D4HMXfefSdcZuFkmNY2d6p49va08FWkqqg_90ayETJ8-8hEU_Y7Rlrc72cCBLf52/s1600/Letaba+river.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb7Ko9O7uHQMrXI0ZhuXGmV3Hh9qsYfKWJslwSlqn4ULQEHJ0b8kHiFLjIJgUif5InVUzfOtmLpSJ1D4HMXfefSdcZuFkmNY2d6p49va08FWkqqg_90ayETJ8-8hEU_Y7Rlrc72cCBLf52/s320/Letaba+river.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Letaba river peace</td></tr>
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<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rare two-headed giraffe</td></tr>
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At Chokwe we stopped to try out our visa cards, and to buy
sim-cards, with the promise that they would work in a modem. By early evening
we clocked into Xai-xai, which we found rather tumbled-down. The camp site
looked nice, but in the absence of any signs of a dive center we decided not to
set camp but to take two chalets and to push on north the next day.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zona Braza comfort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgryT9ngMvNuZ0p8qSITEYl43dOucP9mKIHAoVcSXukX0ntVISOkW7LgwEo5e9obkqCdgfUYiT7c5Knl6slG_6Wjm76gPK1sXyM_QGBI0l4ARHuo1FlQflechvKKmgwApM_I5DHtaDmKKb4/s1600/Seafood,+anyone%3f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgryT9ngMvNuZ0p8qSITEYl43dOucP9mKIHAoVcSXukX0ntVISOkW7LgwEo5e9obkqCdgfUYiT7c5Knl6slG_6Wjm76gPK1sXyM_QGBI0l4ARHuo1FlQflechvKKmgwApM_I5DHtaDmKKb4/s320/Seafood,+anyone%3f.jpg" width="278" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catch of the day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A pleasant young lady at a M-cell shop showed us how to
configure the modem, and not much further north we saw a sign to Zona Braza,
the hot spot.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: right;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We decided to spend an hour checking this out. A very nice
resort, not expensive, with charming self catering cottages tempted us to spend
two days instead! Local fishermen supplied crayfish and red snapper and we were
reluctant to leave, but after all the idea was to come diving!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We headed for Inhambane, as we had the use of a house at
Barra Do Tofo, and we knew that here we would find diving. Inhambane sorted out
our last modem glitches, and also delivered our first vehicular contretemps:
The Pescador restaurant serves excellent fish, but their parking requires a
sharp turn on the beach, and the Cruiser was a little heavy, something that the
four wheel drive sorted out. But then the left hand axle lock would not
disengage!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We found the house, the dive center, and the seafood, but
tinkering with the axle lock did not deliver many positive results. So now we
will enlist the assistance of Paulinho, and see what we see.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvypFHhc_6wpBzU6fNTLCQUFtkEMDRhdQqBIhiO6bAhgO0brGoaTS8Xd1vJ9n3OgEk43_4wGj2Pt1axT_4bQHlTcAUC8ep9UnGe-XL-eAsKh8qnkUyVzS91eJuRzaDTh_coEgUikHtKcQZ/s1600/Fishermen+off+Tofo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvypFHhc_6wpBzU6fNTLCQUFtkEMDRhdQqBIhiO6bAhgO0brGoaTS8Xd1vJ9n3OgEk43_4wGj2Pt1axT_4bQHlTcAUC8ep9UnGe-XL-eAsKh8qnkUyVzS91eJuRzaDTh_coEgUikHtKcQZ/s400/Fishermen+off+Tofo.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishermen off Tofo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<!--EndFragment-->Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-65541711782365837682013-05-16T12:15:00.000-07:002013-05-16T12:15:14.063-07:00The road is calling, and I must go ...<br />
In the long, empty days of autumn we began to talk with some seriousness about a way to avoid the coming winter.<br />
<br />
"Why" Said Reinhard "do we not go diving in Mozambique?"<br />
<br />
And the seed was sown.<br />
<br />
And as the day approaches, life happens. You know how it is. Suddenly the seemingly empty days fill up with important, urgent things that just cannot be postponed.<br />
<br />
Now, fitting four people and their luggage and diving and camping gear into the Cruiser wehere two of us had our camping stuff was never going to be easy. Especially as Madam flatly refuses to have her diving gear on the roof rack.<br />
<br />
And then things started happening. An Ambassador of a country we MUST visit one of these days, asked me to come and see him. And the new and wonderful modem stopped working after a week. Amd my brother who had emigrated to Cape Town was going to be in town. And Shahnaz had to attend a meditation workshop And then our estate agent decided to stand us up, leaving us two days to renegotiate all the rental contracts, arrange for the servants to be paid, and get the municipal accounts sorted out.<br />
<br />
Well, we did have a moment when we thought that we should postpone. After all we do want to see our friends who will only arrive in Maputo on 31 May, and will probably be visitable a month or two later. But Lorraine had already asked for leave, and after all, once we are on the road things will work out, somehow. We know that.<br />
<br />
So I got to packing. We will take the Cobb charcoal stove, the Jiko stove, now converted from petrol to gas, and the small Chinese camp gaz stove we bought in Mauritania. And Raienhard has a Cadac gas stove ... Do you get the impression that we are going to be over-stoved? Ok, the Cobb will stay, especially as we will do some camp fires.<br />
<br />
So, from the middle of our pile of torches, inflatable mattresses, groceries, batteries, clothes, and sundries, we send you greetings!Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-50936054261772628252012-04-21T07:58:00.001-07:002012-04-21T07:59:08.177-07:00And the road back north, home with a leaking radiator<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMjQWzhhRnhAvSGzxhz31DCOG5tJ178Iyl1OY4JEKpSpAH0vEd9v9wYvaIqInweqwVmkgGTVLRVSO37qZV4q8zKfFjXe8B8FVnhy1t1YceVtH7Y2yAh0ULJfzeE7DSv3fD4PaA4Mge5y0K/s1600/DSC_9567.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMjQWzhhRnhAvSGzxhz31DCOG5tJ178Iyl1OY4JEKpSpAH0vEd9v9wYvaIqInweqwVmkgGTVLRVSO37qZV4q8zKfFjXe8B8FVnhy1t1YceVtH7Y2yAh0ULJfzeE7DSv3fD4PaA4Mge5y0K/s200/DSC_9567.jpg" width="132" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Order and quiet in Vishoek valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikGhLfFUqOGl4wPF72b7286H0GVNiGUdzvqxSi863k_LlG0C-VPttqx245SxN3pftbFb-yUxgvihbUplAl5thtXT6tN4n1viLeg-MWLOYLopjiB29opXMU8Vxd1mCAnBJItjmZzYm4-hXK/s1600/DSC_9580.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikGhLfFUqOGl4wPF72b7286H0GVNiGUdzvqxSi863k_LlG0C-VPttqx245SxN3pftbFb-yUxgvihbUplAl5thtXT6tN4n1viLeg-MWLOYLopjiB29opXMU8Vxd1mCAnBJItjmZzYm4-hXK/s320/DSC_9580.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Time, passing in a blur: False Bay at night</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD6yuGZE8T0iOXUmICnyY0XI18F3P4W8ttMgaWvswB6FDMU72cHpplfRcG_TCj8nvyq248rBqvSDSziiw-1T0bpys3ld3E00SG4ZltJhLxKvJRsdBsR3bnt7IftleCa-5vy24-7YvxEsxH/s1600/DSC_9625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD6yuGZE8T0iOXUmICnyY0XI18F3P4W8ttMgaWvswB6FDMU72cHpplfRcG_TCj8nvyq248rBqvSDSziiw-1T0bpys3ld3E00SG4ZltJhLxKvJRsdBsR3bnt7IftleCa-5vy24-7YvxEsxH/s320/DSC_9625.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset: Klein Karoo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The time in Cape Town passed in a blur.
The Cruiser needed some tender loving care, and at last I found
someone who cares, and has the level of professional integrity that I
require. We may consider moving to Cape Town just for that! Three
people checking each other's work! The radiator people were less
helpful. Taking it out would take one, maybe two days, but then, if
they could not repair it, they would require four working days to
build a new one. I alone had taken it out and replaced in twice in
one day, so I felt that I should rather keep filling from a can and
hope for the best.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30EkRLB8LM8s3Qz9Vi1E7HBlcc5a-xB96F0Aw3HyMBZhv9-1vpRL4XLS6Qo-dgfOwnZIUt_0bS05TtaEwPZa9vuqeAJcG8Xo3NeQYy8Uaw0OTHX0fI6hlvvPT-wmTxfpqn6n6kueUHGdv/s1600/DSC_9631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30EkRLB8LM8s3Qz9Vi1E7HBlcc5a-xB96F0Aw3HyMBZhv9-1vpRL4XLS6Qo-dgfOwnZIUt_0bS05TtaEwPZa9vuqeAJcG8Xo3NeQYy8Uaw0OTHX0fI6hlvvPT-wmTxfpqn6n6kueUHGdv/s1600/DSC_9631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj30EkRLB8LM8s3Qz9Vi1E7HBlcc5a-xB96F0Aw3HyMBZhv9-1vpRL4XLS6Qo-dgfOwnZIUt_0bS05TtaEwPZa9vuqeAJcG8Xo3NeQYy8Uaw0OTHX0fI6hlvvPT-wmTxfpqn6n6kueUHGdv/s320/DSC_9631.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church, near Calitzdorp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<span class="Apple-style-span">Then we headed north, taking it slowly</span><span class="Apple-style-span">through the famous Route 62, along the Klein Karoo valley between the
mountains, and carrying the rain with us to Calitzdorp, but arriving
too late to visit our favourite cellars. The radiator needed no
water!</span></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKNipxw1zgOquvN8vwHFhs-9M_jPLugZdEaaya3_EGJ2-qpebOG-OOEfgLIa0_7CeYlucRNMuwalkQ6Dc-t6ZXVY-W7VoxUpSi71MmbJoXI3ncCNdJGZF0rxV-CpjoKQjLZgPt9nN2PKrS/s1600/DSC_9610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKNipxw1zgOquvN8vwHFhs-9M_jPLugZdEaaya3_EGJ2-qpebOG-OOEfgLIa0_7CeYlucRNMuwalkQ6Dc-t6ZXVY-W7VoxUpSi71MmbJoXI3ncCNdJGZF0rxV-CpjoKQjLZgPt9nN2PKrS/s320/DSC_9610.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountain road</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDEW7gjH3WC5pGDULEdNTGkj0BKzdxfCwjFALa0HLZUka_n14uIOSbbu60AT24DvKsvN8lDkXrMbgxD5qjTbHfHoII3j4R2mrsNvNEAzc1dQAoyGjoB-wE0O9hDUrhaJdDqCl19cmGp8zA/s1600/DSC_9603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDEW7gjH3WC5pGDULEdNTGkj0BKzdxfCwjFALa0HLZUka_n14uIOSbbu60AT24DvKsvN8lDkXrMbgxD5qjTbHfHoII3j4R2mrsNvNEAzc1dQAoyGjoB-wE0O9hDUrhaJdDqCl19cmGp8zA/s200/DSC_9603.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">North into the Karoo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The next day was new territory for us,
and we tracked along the old Voortrekker road, always between the
mountains. The last rain of summer followed us as we traveled through
places where my ancestors struggled to live as nomads, and the small
towns we passed through had the air of tamed wilderness. </div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
We were beginning to see the first signs of winter approaching: leaves turning yellow, snow on the Sneeuberge, and the air had a bite in it. </div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The night we
passed in Graaf Reinet, one of the towns that had declared an
independent Republic after the French Revolution. Next morning the
radiator needed a liter of water.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGffh3t_uKJq46PNiAkP91i3PoGDXl0RjpEVONubASlT4wDuojlxGCw_ju8XA-Kn4DWZGeReB96WY45L3SwHiLYYAROpi4u6W8DbNdlmuGbHNJ41NbRGEIBlSujU2O1yKdj_VLAEKYmttr/s1600/DSC_9651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGffh3t_uKJq46PNiAkP91i3PoGDXl0RjpEVONubASlT4wDuojlxGCw_ju8XA-Kn4DWZGeReB96WY45L3SwHiLYYAROpi4u6W8DbNdlmuGbHNJ41NbRGEIBlSujU2O1yKdj_VLAEKYmttr/s320/DSC_9651.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rain on the mountains near De Rust</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YNPDWWpzyKWwylGGRABW1Qr-5m04JEGrMcI8kkZ5U2L5aVAgrYWlgwSjhLnBKUEN221VDMozO3PHtztnKbP9VyuoBXirX-mrXIVPKCKXwNyxv9t-S2KIrI283kWvA7y_D-nQwdY8Kpg3/s1600/DSC_9708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4YNPDWWpzyKWwylGGRABW1Qr-5m04JEGrMcI8kkZ5U2L5aVAgrYWlgwSjhLnBKUEN221VDMozO3PHtztnKbP9VyuoBXirX-mrXIVPKCKXwNyxv9t-S2KIrI283kWvA7y_D-nQwdY8Kpg3/s200/DSC_9708.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Graaf Reinet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Then we set off again, on the last day
of the Easter weekend, and we felt the anxiety of the migrating
holiday makers. For a few short kilometers, near Colesberg, we joined
the mad rush on the N1, but we cheated, and took a deviation on a
gravel road, nowhere as good as the Namibian ones, on to Smithfield.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbH7NICwONWVQilZwO_yXv8iuJiLdSfpmwmDlX7HHd_IRca3rPfZ592JP-QDlG1AaEhTmMhwxfFUBtwBgDHs-m43dHUc4_d4AlDcEhKUZcbLmUTjlwQofNdZUbEH9NQuiVYzw1MxzmjFCx/s1600/DSC_9722.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbH7NICwONWVQilZwO_yXv8iuJiLdSfpmwmDlX7HHd_IRca3rPfZ592JP-QDlG1AaEhTmMhwxfFUBtwBgDHs-m43dHUc4_d4AlDcEhKUZcbLmUTjlwQofNdZUbEH9NQuiVYzw1MxzmjFCx/s320/DSC_9722.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Autumn colours in the Free State</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
A pleasant if cold night was followed
by a rather rude surprise. It needed three liters of water to fill
the radiator! We crept through the great emptiness of the eastern
Free State with one eye on the thermometer, and stopped at The Cabin
outside Lady Brand, added a liter to the radiator, and went on.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
Nearing the Rand it became clear that
we would hit Johannesburg at the height of the peak traffic, so
confirmed that we would visit Hester and Lawrence in Meyerton until
the worst was over.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil9_WGtBpfPYnSV0D42jamlcNLBoPrXY5-hI5ayKcczmTyBBVXeKVTNpbzp1P3qQipiurqH7ajtMvS8sO2TPglGS-1qe0r6rq-nh4DXweitxKCdgSicuLZzGTWsW5DhrC5IX5WSuayo4xD/s1600/DSC_9729.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil9_WGtBpfPYnSV0D42jamlcNLBoPrXY5-hI5ayKcczmTyBBVXeKVTNpbzp1P3qQipiurqH7ajtMvS8sO2TPglGS-1qe0r6rq-nh4DXweitxKCdgSicuLZzGTWsW5DhrC5IX5WSuayo4xD/s320/DSC_9729.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stormy weather on the way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
The radiator was really dripping when
it had cooled down, and we resumed our journey with apprehension.
Passing the airport at Kempton Park the temperature gauge started
creeping upwards, and I stopped at the Engen to the sound of boiling
water. From there we made it home, but by the next morning the water
was flowing out as fast as you pour it in. So off to see if Mr Toyota
in Japan can get me a new one. Yes, he can start making one
immediately, and will send it by the first ship.
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
And so ends another safari. Interesting, new friends made, new places seen, new memories to cherish. <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVV4UZKw8yiCqR-RuX9fQQqCsfF_Xn-l5SrpAVACfgsmPkf2nZpCjyRpKNhhZhq5ZK_FHtBXoEhtKOiirHMlE6BbsplAA4EjNOGXrEsThdJXgj752AcYBIDK8AttbJbHdBOo2ljFul1ook/s1600/DSC_9732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVV4UZKw8yiCqR-RuX9fQQqCsfF_Xn-l5SrpAVACfgsmPkf2nZpCjyRpKNhhZhq5ZK_FHtBXoEhtKOiirHMlE6BbsplAA4EjNOGXrEsThdJXgj752AcYBIDK8AttbJbHdBOo2ljFul1ook/s320/DSC_9732.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Autumn in the Free State</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5eEZFFEdyfwIvFlGSfDdXpa8Go75xrn8koBoEgoIG8j5vOixfiPADe8q4L2q6xm9wgNrcbZjXhZcI5pnNTbYhpSeW2dqdx-QlHFKTJRIjkdyYnCFKc8PgI7-kEyFjjl70GHM1t3UWV5O7/s1600/DSC_9735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5eEZFFEdyfwIvFlGSfDdXpa8Go75xrn8koBoEgoIG8j5vOixfiPADe8q4L2q6xm9wgNrcbZjXhZcI5pnNTbYhpSeW2dqdx-QlHFKTJRIjkdyYnCFKc8PgI7-kEyFjjl70GHM1t3UWV5O7/s320/DSC_9735.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cuddling under the hillside against the coming winter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkg7F4Ypio_D5XlCD3Z6j0OYdl0pmnFdPy0yRy38AlacoaCJujPGJ515eIdpXMy-J7sKg2VmNVkLM-kcWOH2X6c6GbopprbYcbHJFuRPYhTrFo15Vpc3QWcYUlwaw26UFFl1eifGLpD3Ln/s1600/DSC_9740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkg7F4Ypio_D5XlCD3Z6j0OYdl0pmnFdPy0yRy38AlacoaCJujPGJ515eIdpXMy-J7sKg2VmNVkLM-kcWOH2X6c6GbopprbYcbHJFuRPYhTrFo15Vpc3QWcYUlwaw26UFFl1eifGLpD3Ln/s1600/DSC_9740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkg7F4Ypio_D5XlCD3Z6j0OYdl0pmnFdPy0yRy38AlacoaCJujPGJ515eIdpXMy-J7sKg2VmNVkLM-kcWOH2X6c6GbopprbYcbHJFuRPYhTrFo15Vpc3QWcYUlwaw26UFFl1eifGLpD3Ln/s320/DSC_9740.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The migration route. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
</div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-7762499205440205412012-04-05T01:32:00.000-07:002012-04-05T01:32:37.451-07:00Cape Town!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> <br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5LFNKNBv8Rt2JasVE8bDJQuD5nIIwhH6l9T2lpqO9fDUbt3QHW1klScDx1ZcmKQe5bTH7NBMNM59ziGp7jpB1_Sgs65fzaGkZK9zRaiTyoMO1t-DFhHDD_2Gfd24BVlcitMnNrAGzSHCs/s1600/DSC_9444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5LFNKNBv8Rt2JasVE8bDJQuD5nIIwhH6l9T2lpqO9fDUbt3QHW1klScDx1ZcmKQe5bTH7NBMNM59ziGp7jpB1_Sgs65fzaGkZK9zRaiTyoMO1t-DFhHDD_2Gfd24BVlcitMnNrAGzSHCs/s320/DSC_9444.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The long road south from Springbok</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">From Springbok we wended our way down to Clanwilliam, Citrusdal, and on to Cape Town. </div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnWYxle17j1baxTAlVETo_ueIhXmfgbUd2jUdXALomwpQlgxsUtKEH3wh_b3QTfauWzQWYVsWztPdBDGWFKQyb1cCyrRd0G58uhgiTGLPTy4RMPfyHUwnDbuv-0c4KASrhRoR5frY1Yju_/s1600/DSC_9481.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnWYxle17j1baxTAlVETo_ueIhXmfgbUd2jUdXALomwpQlgxsUtKEH3wh_b3QTfauWzQWYVsWztPdBDGWFKQyb1cCyrRd0G58uhgiTGLPTy4RMPfyHUwnDbuv-0c4KASrhRoR5frY1Yju_/s200/DSC_9481.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old world comfort</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">It was great to be able to come from the harsh highlands and desert of the Richtersveld, down into the Olifantsrivier valley, and into the richer, more fertile area around Citrusdal, on to the wide wheat fields around Mooreesburg, and then the winelands leading up to Cape Town. </div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyvuQ226JllGi-eNprY029GVR-ReG5OWt26aywaF2_vBDcauSNJpR41MYNM82BtH_Qei22GVAKOUVaPyNVtv8ibn4y97h9N3Z2-h3bvD0XgNdk-jjrhdq9DiQ5cw-dfa4uJNjFB1iaPKVm/s1600/DSC_9493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyvuQ226JllGi-eNprY029GVR-ReG5OWt26aywaF2_vBDcauSNJpR41MYNM82BtH_Qei22GVAKOUVaPyNVtv8ibn4y97h9N3Z2-h3bvD0XgNdk-jjrhdq9DiQ5cw-dfa4uJNjFB1iaPKVm/s200/DSC_9493.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clanwilliam: frontier architecture</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXEyoLZlV8Opd1N_MhPgyZv_IU_CVTazK4RDMlQdGWHJG5_w37HfZWIo6mrnW1Ut4tZywvR1LBz5Da57SxFVn0RCJKR-P9Aallw-3zlYUK7qByQ9D1wfiNddHxLZw5MFY2MTwK7-v1rZwC/s1600/DSC_9506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXEyoLZlV8Opd1N_MhPgyZv_IU_CVTazK4RDMlQdGWHJG5_w37HfZWIo6mrnW1Ut4tZywvR1LBz5Da57SxFVn0RCJKR-P9Aallw-3zlYUK7qByQ9D1wfiNddHxLZw5MFY2MTwK7-v1rZwC/s320/DSC_9506.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imagine farming here, all on your own!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">We enjoyed reminiscing about Van Riebeeck's explorers who passed this way looking for the fabulous wealth of Monomotapa, and the lives of the first farmers to settle here. </div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RzICAt52hZoSAWGe2oPWHk81onuqmYPe-7ltJbBG3T4x013TvLnnDnJMe3luOtAPT8qMB9lfzYmMoVslrqNeau-e-hol-EtYQ3-obAv0shyphenhyphenbO_e4Get0gSF9hscOjg0ZYo6I04DMtvNV/s1600/DSC_9520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7RzICAt52hZoSAWGe2oPWHk81onuqmYPe-7ltJbBG3T4x013TvLnnDnJMe3luOtAPT8qMB9lfzYmMoVslrqNeau-e-hol-EtYQ3-obAv0shyphenhyphenbO_e4Get0gSF9hscOjg0ZYo6I04DMtvNV/s200/DSC_9520.jpg" width="132" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beauty in a harsh land</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir7rzoGr44VQSLX41PU_Csqs5feqNqhCqXgQuuEEQwaHeaOPsg8XWMgzR22qlwZxoREbC1c1rnrSMxPyruhEOvZOsA31xZX15Vw0eh_JU1tlmNaue0IeDiLbPiy1CFfhT4O7xMDRj3S1vj/s1600/DSC_9534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir7rzoGr44VQSLX41PU_Csqs5feqNqhCqXgQuuEEQwaHeaOPsg8XWMgzR22qlwZxoREbC1c1rnrSMxPyruhEOvZOsA31xZX15Vw0eh_JU1tlmNaue0IeDiLbPiy1CFfhT4O7xMDRj3S1vj/s320/DSC_9534.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Could this be our new offroad vehicle?<br />
Needs some work, though!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">We spent a couple of days chilling out in the warm waters of The Baths and then another few days doing the sights in Cape Town before putting our visitors on the plane back to Mauritius. Shahnaz has some diving to do, to get her soul wet again before we follow the Great Trek back to Pretoria.</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">And we had our share of problems too: the old radiator problem resurfaced! Jan Otto in Citrusdal found some Locktite for me, and that stopped the leak, but she is still loosing water at a worrying rate. In Cape Town I tried to have the problem fixed, even temporarily, but that seems to be difficult. So we will tackle the way home in 'safari mode' with a 5 liter can in hand!</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_ODwogyFZ8-7hc6oyQkWJdTGKbu5K0VgcPvypwRCquwRG7d1-FrXGnXn9HkC__pkmDN-5wFFnIbkjMeuShIrVp4JQEPdDb-xwK8DVQVzYXIiCv2zH0g1BaoOZfXpyt7LcIG9YrRjnG3hM/s1600/DSC_9535.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_ODwogyFZ8-7hc6oyQkWJdTGKbu5K0VgcPvypwRCquwRG7d1-FrXGnXn9HkC__pkmDN-5wFFnIbkjMeuShIrVp4JQEPdDb-xwK8DVQVzYXIiCv2zH0g1BaoOZfXpyt7LcIG9YrRjnG3hM/s320/DSC_9535.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mountin patterns</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ0uUmlpGtnVAAqAdoK5ugC_EjIuA-6hENGTOj5Ejge_Y0tGcj_flkrxX1eZJiIIXumOj6LUZfmanh7GcfeqcECeTcQMRgARjiZdq6kN5hpMrIuYTCC9EC6icktZi2ux67A5LAn1evyFLt/s1600/DSC_9543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ0uUmlpGtnVAAqAdoK5ugC_EjIuA-6hENGTOj5Ejge_Y0tGcj_flkrxX1eZJiIIXumOj6LUZfmanh7GcfeqcECeTcQMRgARjiZdq6kN5hpMrIuYTCC9EC6icktZi2ux67A5LAn1evyFLt/s200/DSC_9543.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Storm over the wheat fields</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZQ5z18d852LQmUS2a8_ltd_okbRUGMSPJXSSdlxIOy3PB9Ixhl5S0bopoMLsgAOrdZYl6ONWixFQgul6zo6lYt_jhYNmC6Cx2gGP3ECYmBoQ06rLZdYeHRDHhiaAAkGfW4Q4uhTlTzKmD/s1600/DSC_9553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="116" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZQ5z18d852LQmUS2a8_ltd_okbRUGMSPJXSSdlxIOy3PB9Ixhl5S0bopoMLsgAOrdZYl6ONWixFQgul6zo6lYt_jhYNmC6Cx2gGP3ECYmBoQ06rLZdYeHRDHhiaAAkGfW4Q4uhTlTzKmD/s400/DSC_9553.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Table Mountain, at last!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWhteF1kLgqotHGXbOh9HsbNMuRTBo4o7yR1KQkWojFLBjb2CBxii3rjq23lOAyzKivHQYB07HFwWTfX4WIw6ghj0Aq-A7bLJX_0RUEuekXHc_yrf3q4K9n3836JPo0ukUA7-7HNA1xhGa/s1600/DSC_9560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWhteF1kLgqotHGXbOh9HsbNMuRTBo4o7yR1KQkWojFLBjb2CBxii3rjq23lOAyzKivHQYB07HFwWTfX4WIw6ghj0Aq-A7bLJX_0RUEuekXHc_yrf3q4K9n3836JPo0ukUA7-7HNA1xhGa/s320/DSC_9560.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penguins and people at Simonstown</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"> </div></div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-68876899029509229832012-03-30T06:34:00.001-07:002012-04-01T08:18:35.783-07:00South into the Cape Province<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><div style="text-align: right;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0.21cm; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhTT3FIK9ULx41zcqg2QDhhqIibzvK8wmPrv6qytBb27yXbWOzIC1h438OOcwQtHTPErQ7AEsTY9_VxzOQYCaRuBVIx-G8UApWRXTKQYuto1qa2B9gGbAG-xXP4tbAnXz0hKOMs0GyKum1/s1600/DSC_9183.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhTT3FIK9ULx41zcqg2QDhhqIibzvK8wmPrv6qytBb27yXbWOzIC1h438OOcwQtHTPErQ7AEsTY9_VxzOQYCaRuBVIx-G8UApWRXTKQYuto1qa2B9gGbAG-xXP4tbAnXz0hKOMs0GyKum1/s320/DSC_9183.jpg" width="212" /></a></div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0.21cm; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">Swakopmund lighthouse</div><div><br />
</div></td></tr>
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</style><span id="goog_1341858331"></span><span id="goog_1341858332"></span>And still the road drew us on. Windhoek, with its history and curio shops. Time went by as we browsed the art market, but then we were on the go again, into the mountains and onto the Khomas Hochland, and down towards Swakopmund. </div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdSAWCWP5Y5pWkl0kKOGLt6l3w4uSMy9hX6rPTxl3SJAVTSJMLFfq-jMKm1cVhkY5L2ovPFTbyKlRzAmERup2qrmOMo6_l2buc_Y9HIcxXJH__kHrqgl7-Q1iP6F-hQUE-q8I2f5908MeJ/s1600/DSC_9268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdSAWCWP5Y5pWkl0kKOGLt6l3w4uSMy9hX6rPTxl3SJAVTSJMLFfq-jMKm1cVhkY5L2ovPFTbyKlRzAmERup2qrmOMo6_l2buc_Y9HIcxXJH__kHrqgl7-Q1iP6F-hQUE-q8I2f5908MeJ/s320/DSC_9268.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Colours to dream of</td></tr>
</tbody></table>It was fascinating watching the vegetation change, from lush grassland to mountains, to hard rocky grassland, to gravel plains, to sandy plains. A compulsory stop was to meet with that disoasaur of plants, the Welwitchia Mirabilis. And then the holiday town of Swakopmund and its German gemutlichkeit.</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0.21cm; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_usFRl-VS4DDvhVhHqB9sHYFb592rqmUJ0K855D4oZpQBIISmm0Xkhjjwxh8woYBXjc83FGh7B_AstOk0inmcde7z4qONdUzMJ3IsGn5VGelRjeVtWCzN1s_RdoPh4F1-S18swpr1GmC6/s1600/DSC_9103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_usFRl-VS4DDvhVhHqB9sHYFb592rqmUJ0K855D4oZpQBIISmm0Xkhjjwxh8woYBXjc83FGh7B_AstOk0inmcde7z4qONdUzMJ3IsGn5VGelRjeVtWCzN1s_RdoPh4F1-S18swpr1GmC6/s320/DSC_9103.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0.21cm; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">Meeting a dinosaur! The Welwichia in an ancient plant</div><div><br />
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</tbody></table></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">And after two days of rest, on, on towards the Namib. The Cruiser struggled with the heat, because we had the aircon going most of the time, and also did not notice that we were in a steady climb all day, ending a full kilometer higher than where we started.<br />
<div style="text-align: right;"></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm9dlvWlTkOEb08RIp3fu4OoUAjAYmRjmJuL3UDicy3b_IoTOingqCYdsnlxf2Yga7g3VZEs6rgpm9wyditaPhK86y7MKS9a9_tkqKDpTeJzBR05niBmaAu0hk0URAtXuq-MGuY37KAS1m/s1600/DSC_9255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm9dlvWlTkOEb08RIp3fu4OoUAjAYmRjmJuL3UDicy3b_IoTOingqCYdsnlxf2Yga7g3VZEs6rgpm9wyditaPhK86y7MKS9a9_tkqKDpTeJzBR05niBmaAu0hk0URAtXuq-MGuY37KAS1m/s320/DSC_9255.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Lovely gravel roads, great scenery,<br />
what more do you want?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The next day we went on towards the Fish River canyon, and, perhaps stubborn, refused to pay what we thought were exorbitant fees to visit the lookout point. So, after a good night's rest and an expensive dinner, we took the last lap of Namibia's excellent gravel roads, and then the B1, down to Noordoewer, and a pleasant checking out of Namibia. </div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRAXdsnzX-Q9fJM22nbmA2X2imdRbTbQWA7hwW9rib7U0pcLbGnSg8nKhxNWdCb58-fx6ROwi79Mt3Xry8hhq0TKzBZ466qgfCg6D41LWVZPfF9w3JOV7qXXw0ynTunTPuIFJ19kD03ap/s1600/DSC_9301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrRAXdsnzX-Q9fJM22nbmA2X2imdRbTbQWA7hwW9rib7U0pcLbGnSg8nKhxNWdCb58-fx6ROwi79Mt3Xry8hhq0TKzBZ466qgfCg6D41LWVZPfF9w3JOV7qXXw0ynTunTPuIFJ19kD03ap/s320/DSC_9301.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Saying goodbye in the Namibian fashion</td></tr>
</tbody></table>And on to Springbok, over badly maintained tar. If this part of the road is not sealed soon, next year there will be serious potholes. </div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;">Now the planning starts running out, and we have some latitude to improvise before we are due in Cape Town. Watch this space!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div></div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-86153920953796059952012-03-21T00:44:00.000-07:002012-03-21T00:44:19.492-07:00The road goes ever on and on: Kalahari dreams<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8GSRt-oOYA_NNS8fds66Mlgwfnc3xu3asB8ZFiCq_8z3CdogYjOUpV5f2XD-J1D9kky1iourglnLTEoepUQR106Ykmvc3G7YWNToEZuEOC12ggGrx6MLWmytYlvYi-Rl_oMNYV6zPXrqN/s1600/DSC_8493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8GSRt-oOYA_NNS8fds66Mlgwfnc3xu3asB8ZFiCq_8z3CdogYjOUpV5f2XD-J1D9kky1iourglnLTEoepUQR106Ykmvc3G7YWNToEZuEOC12ggGrx6MLWmytYlvYi-Rl_oMNYV6zPXrqN/s320/DSC_8493.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road signs!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oasis in the desert:Van Zylsrus hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table> The road has called, and we must go.<br />
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</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Shahnaz’ mother had read our blog, and felt that she had to share our Africa. And Tante Renate had heard of the Namibian experiences, and wanted to follow up on a long-forgotten planned holiday to this ex-German colony. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCuc8rSUmmOMA6rvabfPFEC4FNmHBwM58mfQq7YNP3FVl9dY3d-Suh69BgAsMWy4LbzLQaip4RGITYt5cp4F4mE3u0DbE1KX6nkoFI4jitg-2niIc0fil9mv8Y9U5rvhifReg4FBt0wFMc/s1600/DSC_8734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCuc8rSUmmOMA6rvabfPFEC4FNmHBwM58mfQq7YNP3FVl9dY3d-Suh69BgAsMWy4LbzLQaip4RGITYt5cp4F4mE3u0DbE1KX6nkoFI4jitg-2niIc0fil9mv8Y9U5rvhifReg4FBt0wFMc/s320/DSC_8734.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bat ear foxes</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We set out, on a bright March morning, on the long road west, first to Kuruman, but due to a golf tournament there was no room at the inn or at any of the guest houses there. So we turned north, stopping for a photo opportunity at Hotazell which was rather cool, all things compared. Then we had a little argument between GPS, paper maps and road works, but by late afternoon we found the Van Zylsrus Hotel.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">A pleasant oasis this turned out to be, a small town in the great Kalahari, conscious of the weight of the dryness, the ever-threatening drought. Hard land, friendly people, good food. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrHtqcJRVSZWjarrIPAXwaHsC6HCbLTckQL1LFDoX4J5SpgSKFN9lC3w7h35MogR3QWy_Dl24qml9I6jcFX6yeFN4LaSIp73UjxGdQ0CF8T6QQ2Tmb1-XEp8-TB3uNAvtKTkjtuxCw1rXV/s1600/DSC_8794.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrHtqcJRVSZWjarrIPAXwaHsC6HCbLTckQL1LFDoX4J5SpgSKFN9lC3w7h35MogR3QWy_Dl24qml9I6jcFX6yeFN4LaSIp73UjxGdQ0CF8T6QQ2Tmb1-XEp8-TB3uNAvtKTkjtuxCw1rXV/s320/DSC_8794.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peace, brothers!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Early the next morning we set out to Twee Rivieren, which my GPS insisted was in Botswana, and by late morning we had checked out of South Africa and into the Kgalagadi Transfrontier park. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Fortunately we were not camping, as the easter holiday crowd had started arriving: imposing assemblies of technology, with drivers of varying degrees of expertise. Overseas tourists with rented campers and 4X4 vehicles with rooftop tents made us wonder at the likelihood that they would get stuck…. But all seemed to be enjoying themselves. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPZEkfmShpb2vI2tgSpxdVDyncTASNgPW-q25AVi4eATBeoXcJKeN2eJQtzSKb-WUokQfcEg01iL3rW5J7Gwigj6sj6iNdCYh_eECazoRmmAj4a-Zntkv6nvRMW7nvZ9QINEr1c87m0Z5/s1600/DSC_8818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJPZEkfmShpb2vI2tgSpxdVDyncTASNgPW-q25AVi4eATBeoXcJKeN2eJQtzSKb-WUokQfcEg01iL3rW5J7Gwigj6sj6iNdCYh_eECazoRmmAj4a-Zntkv6nvRMW7nvZ9QINEr1c87m0Z5/s320/DSC_8818.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We wondered at this scene. Was the dead giraffe the <br />
little one's mother?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">And we saw lots of animals in the three days we were there. Including a cheetah that we had heard had been unsuccessful in her hunt the previous day. We met her, trotting determinedly towards a water course where we knew there was a large herd of springbok, but we could not see the chase that we knew would follow. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Then we entered Namibia, with pleasant officials at the border, passed a relaxing night at Gochas, in the Auob river lodge, and then visited Isabis, to experience the authentic hospitality of this country, and see the breathtaking scenery found there. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">And on to Windhoek, for some cultural soaking, but also the National Day, so many things were closed. <o:p></o:p></span></div><!--EndFragment--><br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsYknBl_ICQn0hy3oNmqC-c6XkohbzLOBnKncOHvg5pvhvdnH_hHx8ejATsexBgxH_zFTesm6c6UzUsD03ube9XmAWlV9P7gnzRelj8SIyqHQEAAIcbWsKX5IPGYCWMo1yaOwpkEJwd3xc/s1600/DSC_8861.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsYknBl_ICQn0hy3oNmqC-c6XkohbzLOBnKncOHvg5pvhvdnH_hHx8ejATsexBgxH_zFTesm6c6UzUsD03ube9XmAWlV9P7gnzRelj8SIyqHQEAAIcbWsKX5IPGYCWMo1yaOwpkEJwd3xc/s320/DSC_8861.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hunting cheetah</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1XjW9jQzppeOrvHauC9JDK2Xgb-v3I8FciZUeyJfcGLRUOmSlUQtLfrnd_jCVvlbmYN4EcdB958vO1dWz821TxuwhylLDc2kbvld0Hk5VOUwfh4Oo5MqOP4BMf2_OkrsO1xDFwKDix0W_/s1600/DSC_8913.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1XjW9jQzppeOrvHauC9JDK2Xgb-v3I8FciZUeyJfcGLRUOmSlUQtLfrnd_jCVvlbmYN4EcdB958vO1dWz821TxuwhylLDc2kbvld0Hk5VOUwfh4Oo5MqOP4BMf2_OkrsO1xDFwKDix0W_/s320/DSC_8913.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And lunch on the hoof.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOlpslzP5BmV7BchYAd-4UQ21coL5W4z8DHHjniLyi3NEVDh_sYvU2SX0ClQpG-h_Ck90maCnA-c9YkKEF0zZ3Rg-DAg__ZX4bCs_1T7TvyGx1v0M353m4TVp0i0eYZnfAzcDsjxi7iYN4/s1600/DSC_8981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOlpslzP5BmV7BchYAd-4UQ21coL5W4z8DHHjniLyi3NEVDh_sYvU2SX0ClQpG-h_Ck90maCnA-c9YkKEF0zZ3Rg-DAg__ZX4bCs_1T7TvyGx1v0M353m4TVp0i0eYZnfAzcDsjxi7iYN4/s320/DSC_8981.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tante Renate's birthday</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKrSd8pANHtV07xh-4VjvBjSmscikmT9MWn7CEE9D-sR5JZzOE2U7SZOY5LnHm2tydt7aTncxC_OlFc7XbGbSY6zhtjToswPUh4brLx8qSyjmF6iEpouktkUr6GCaDmRTBCl9DQVLFPuWu/s1600/DSC_8998.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKrSd8pANHtV07xh-4VjvBjSmscikmT9MWn7CEE9D-sR5JZzOE2U7SZOY5LnHm2tydt7aTncxC_OlFc7XbGbSY6zhtjToswPUh4brLx8qSyjmF6iEpouktkUr6GCaDmRTBCl9DQVLFPuWu/s320/DSC_8998.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Verdant Namibia, despite a low rainfall. </td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiprQNJnPsNIBPyKFjamNYBNSsflH4bx5bOsPtheTZyzr_hjEmfL1l_FzwsTOy-w0TXNkznjk01G_yQpOUocyfwn0O6JDrN4ToMncq4h9xA373pKXwrfu3ZsJ6a6HIdw6bQ92wcQJ4GYrlw/s1600/DSC_9024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiprQNJnPsNIBPyKFjamNYBNSsflH4bx5bOsPtheTZyzr_hjEmfL1l_FzwsTOy-w0TXNkznjk01G_yQpOUocyfwn0O6JDrN4ToMncq4h9xA373pKXwrfu3ZsJ6a6HIdw6bQ92wcQJ4GYrlw/s320/DSC_9024.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And where can you see a better sight?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpGIn1sP7LjkN6yMhyphenhyphen4V0QJDorL2o7kLmNdAfXNKk8HHgbQ36BC8QgaexMssHCuRCYllQv4HZDGz0iKoUiQ2hQpp8ImI0Kg3TJFcl9yINZLDhw8QxPIN9M2Ftmvzo_4ZZdxHw5b68Mz5Le/s1600/DSC_8693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpGIn1sP7LjkN6yMhyphenhyphen4V0QJDorL2o7kLmNdAfXNKk8HHgbQ36BC8QgaexMssHCuRCYllQv4HZDGz0iKoUiQ2hQpp8ImI0Kg3TJFcl9yINZLDhw8QxPIN9M2Ftmvzo_4ZZdxHw5b68Mz5Le/s320/DSC_8693.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">His Majesty had had enough of tourists</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ4sWgHEVET1RcV14GIsUs4SGwXlR86g1UZ1qxsNolpqeWhFw5Fxn3P_CkaJpDRqEvqQ0N4Zb7Kf23gVeXL1pOzzUDzMXzh3oTHG3D_0kdyKcURWAqH70JiMy6x_DBPt5bTjfNi4WWLxtz/s1600/DSC_8689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ4sWgHEVET1RcV14GIsUs4SGwXlR86g1UZ1qxsNolpqeWhFw5Fxn3P_CkaJpDRqEvqQ0N4Zb7Kf23gVeXL1pOzzUDzMXzh3oTHG3D_0kdyKcURWAqH70JiMy6x_DBPt5bTjfNi4WWLxtz/s320/DSC_8689.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And so has Her Majesty</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2pkqzGz9lfzB1BwS7ZwXHrUc1Uru8bULHaRIKvISn5sWByV8AeggoFE6AZWASek8FjbLlUJSEJ-baGWwKZQ7NrFRtXapA5Fr90ayXC78i9yjRhFvVxtxA8sYnYppWZiRhP3X1RAzIgUvT/s1600/DSC_8589.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2pkqzGz9lfzB1BwS7ZwXHrUc1Uru8bULHaRIKvISn5sWByV8AeggoFE6AZWASek8FjbLlUJSEJ-baGWwKZQ7NrFRtXapA5Fr90ayXC78i9yjRhFvVxtxA8sYnYppWZiRhP3X1RAzIgUvT/s320/DSC_8589.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But the courtiers could not care less</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
</div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-87058649763380599252012-01-29T08:06:00.000-08:002012-01-29T08:06:59.602-08:00The mystery of Matlabas<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKCXYpkrUwlYFmZ63YFi0s-1ZE5HdpRTc16CnhYQLVB_HRiP0W6il8SGjdZdo9uZUAhdKDSdkaqEcLB-HhamkYJFW3fuB0GiVeNtlcnO2FpQVi2As-OzHMeGguMUNpbQAMqabRWErhpnL/s1600/DSC_7417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOKCXYpkrUwlYFmZ63YFi0s-1ZE5HdpRTc16CnhYQLVB_HRiP0W6il8SGjdZdo9uZUAhdKDSdkaqEcLB-HhamkYJFW3fuB0GiVeNtlcnO2FpQVi2As-OzHMeGguMUNpbQAMqabRWErhpnL/s320/DSC_7417.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ancient mountains, red with iron, guarding<br />
their secrets</td></tr>
</tbody></table>In the north-west of South Africa, in a remote, mountainous region lie the Thabazimbi range: Mountain of Iron. Since time out of mind iron has been mined here, and today several opencast mines operate. But that is soon forgotten once one goes deeper into the mountains, and even more so in the Marekele reserve.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVYKVMI2v9cyQhXec2tb0429pSX7aupYzzySYNBEy4RsRi8Q4ZQpJdmWjwWCniYSwIuCcr1Va6D4xu8lfZ5OKBzOzeAJaZpB9Qm8Hl92UVHbignG8wdkEk1H0hf1POyqwi3m40CGEHNiZR/s1600/DSC_7224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVYKVMI2v9cyQhXec2tb0429pSX7aupYzzySYNBEy4RsRi8Q4ZQpJdmWjwWCniYSwIuCcr1Va6D4xu8lfZ5OKBzOzeAJaZpB9Qm8Hl92UVHbignG8wdkEk1H0hf1POyqwi3m40CGEHNiZR/s320/DSC_7224.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Researchers in the Matlabas wetland</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
This reserve hosts a mystery: high in the mountains lie a marshland, source of the Matlabas river, which eventually flows into the Limpopo.<br />
<br />
Tribal lore tells of a magical snake that could be seen in the pools of the Matlabas, an enchanted crowned snake that could make your dreams come true, or take you with into the depths of the water.<br />
<br />
We have not yet seen this snake. But there is another mystery.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQguze15cISwY70kCovEXk_2VR-zp1lOfq3-ZBivZdEwjQWUDDwKibHIHx5uD9V7E7xNjAb7NiKYaTyTfss0iIfZ1BlwroCDcttD8DbxzKOG9cV2jeqkCFUz59gsBvQvsYV2NV8aYMWh8F/s1600/DSC_7281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQguze15cISwY70kCovEXk_2VR-zp1lOfq3-ZBivZdEwjQWUDDwKibHIHx5uD9V7E7xNjAb7NiKYaTyTfss0iIfZ1BlwroCDcttD8DbxzKOG9cV2jeqkCFUz59gsBvQvsYV2NV8aYMWh8F/s320/DSC_7281.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Junior researcher checking out the proteas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Of course wetlands have their fair share of mystery, but this one is eroding. Now, by their very nature wetlands tend to heal themselves, through rapid growth of plants that form a mat of vegetation to hold back the water, and thus provide a sponge that releases the rain water over a long period. And nature counts on this steady supply of water even during the dry seasons.<br />
<br />
So, what is happening here? There is no human activity such as ploughing to cause the erosion. There has been no extraordinary rainfall, flooding or drought.<br />
<br />
We went with Antoinette Bootsma, a Masters student researching this mystery, to support her but also to look after her baby while she walks through the bush.<br />
<br />
In February we will have to go again, for a week, to help with a plant survey, and to support her research team. In the meantime, enjoy!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzsJg73HhGTAtAsr_WA-E2H69F_KYJ7Tq1Vy9Oqod1gaiVWmvaga2mD9c74x_QPSSMY9JGMIzu8h3S-_Hdrv0HrbgY9VS5idt05wrAq9LSMsIni_BXJKrEL_G6lgdbP_WObnlQPewXnZ4U/s1600/DSC_7246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzsJg73HhGTAtAsr_WA-E2H69F_KYJ7Tq1Vy9Oqod1gaiVWmvaga2mD9c74x_QPSSMY9JGMIzu8h3S-_Hdrv0HrbgY9VS5idt05wrAq9LSMsIni_BXJKrEL_G6lgdbP_WObnlQPewXnZ4U/s320/DSC_7246.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We will be back!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNaRVfR9RgjsHTvVklAwKBBQYzxLGKYIA0ql6EbegH0EoW9u6DLsNPi-LrCEoxvDRerPNwtV-aaDEXGHElR4ajK6w8xMKdnpm0H6H9OT0mw54Vq-pIW4VZ3dh6O4IWkb4mUqRo9X3kVJ25/s1600/DSC_7332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNaRVfR9RgjsHTvVklAwKBBQYzxLGKYIA0ql6EbegH0EoW9u6DLsNPi-LrCEoxvDRerPNwtV-aaDEXGHElR4ajK6w8xMKdnpm0H6H9OT0mw54Vq-pIW4VZ3dh6O4IWkb4mUqRo9X3kVJ25/s320/DSC_7332.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Klipspringers</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZd1r5c4nWTQ1L4OOzMXM58Nh9j202XPuBQ6aODdYv2VPyds6Qh2Nrg9ecY3Vdz5pHWAHShyphenhyphenPR8ABunnrVAIeFEF9w37BBlXHJnE4Lhz5vvBrvHkOwoQVMA1xvyKNSfkCvdfcuxqk-a_aa/s1600/DSC_7347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZd1r5c4nWTQ1L4OOzMXM58Nh9j202XPuBQ6aODdYv2VPyds6Qh2Nrg9ecY3Vdz5pHWAHShyphenhyphenPR8ABunnrVAIeFEF9w37BBlXHJnE4Lhz5vvBrvHkOwoQVMA1xvyKNSfkCvdfcuxqk-a_aa/s320/DSC_7347.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Returning after a hard day's work</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe0amulbNtIJZ3j3NjPVy6gAPlCnBMcwtvMORbUnwy9l4qBOgqc7tHhibhuqswnah1cmKP_vKTDskV5BVO0DwKITl0xDd5EmkBB35YE7vpEXIgBLT0Z_AFY94CwI8iQVq6jXkdfQcJYn14/s1600/DSC_7408.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe0amulbNtIJZ3j3NjPVy6gAPlCnBMcwtvMORbUnwy9l4qBOgqc7tHhibhuqswnah1cmKP_vKTDskV5BVO0DwKITl0xDd5EmkBB35YE7vpEXIgBLT0Z_AFY94CwI8iQVq6jXkdfQcJYn14/s320/DSC_7408.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The waters host many birds<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtvCHM4K6hKJNnMz-tj2x0A414CuvcHN8C1tJw-vV-5QjG_qJHVXFdrK6PaswP6ubgme8btvvteYcfLV_jHC3l8Hx-lD97Xp-G2RvU9qohF_tHKgFdUtfPwcXmdjPbcqJ_WF4tHL2aWndb/s1600/DSC_7434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="211" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtvCHM4K6hKJNnMz-tj2x0A414CuvcHN8C1tJw-vV-5QjG_qJHVXFdrK6PaswP6ubgme8btvvteYcfLV_jHC3l8Hx-lD97Xp-G2RvU9qohF_tHKgFdUtfPwcXmdjPbcqJ_WF4tHL2aWndb/s320/DSC_7434.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Her first realization that there are wild animals!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
</div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-86604226235559163422011-12-18T07:37:00.000-08:002012-01-05T07:49:58.023-08:00Thinking back<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">After 25,430 kilometers, and a few months to think about the voyage, here are some thoughts:<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21wxxpebqWZqa_-3AaHFZp0sHFgRlU8ibuR69XFaIBypSJCBwjVzIvGpI_cNRmT7nwQ4YjFzR7q_1RsljBExjJ3-BEiJLejAUdvGHcS6oLTSxZfvi0dgU5CLWyAaYLyeADvQwy4M4_2jF/s1600/DSC_3420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg21wxxpebqWZqa_-3AaHFZp0sHFgRlU8ibuR69XFaIBypSJCBwjVzIvGpI_cNRmT7nwQ4YjFzR7q_1RsljBExjJ3-BEiJLejAUdvGHcS6oLTSxZfvi0dgU5CLWyAaYLyeADvQwy4M4_2jF/s320/DSC_3420.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Library in Chinguetti. Who knows what lost treasures are here!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We had a wonderful experience, met many interesting people, and had interesting adventures. All along our road we found that people were expecting change. Not always for the better, not always happy about it. In some cases their countries were about to begin with oil exploitation, and they were worried about the implications and the corruption that would follow. In some cases they were, on the back of the Arab Spring, determined to get involved in bringing about change in their countries.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpw8Hv65VxlGOxD9-66jwOcwpShrvrghHn2U3lUu2SOkXIGwx-tS6bw4j9wvOMjyi3Mz_56DfZ22Pai1tbdoxm79GGFx8sLp5H5EiU6bH51HjCW2aNt3KRfkiZEyJX3lc6m5lHWTSqJL6H/s1600/DSC_3647.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpw8Hv65VxlGOxD9-66jwOcwpShrvrghHn2U3lUu2SOkXIGwx-tS6bw4j9wvOMjyi3Mz_56DfZ22Pai1tbdoxm79GGFx8sLp5H5EiU6bH51HjCW2aNt3KRfkiZEyJX3lc6m5lHWTSqJL6H/s320/DSC_3647.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mr Pa, conservator of the Wassu memorial, a wise man!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>In some centrally controlled countries we saw the controls crumbling, and fresh, vigorous developments taking place. And in some countries we could see the establishment of a cult around new leaders.<br />
<br />
We saw people, in most of Africa, work hard at producing food and other crops, and were convinced that, with not much in the way of mechanization, food production could be increased dramatically. In many countries we saw vast tracts of land unused, and so the talks of Africa running out of food is more a political problem.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8USV990hgoNxgMzSaQAR_AcRwsV2BsM3O1V11E194XFBRu0yjVbEz_qYlxM74s5IwRf5ZXU-8rgRiauhH255KwwVuGJfnSdyB-WnkQ6NY4-TyJY79ISGZk6FHWpooFNDQlqvg5keW20Nm/s1600/DSC03743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8USV990hgoNxgMzSaQAR_AcRwsV2BsM3O1V11E194XFBRu0yjVbEz_qYlxM74s5IwRf5ZXU-8rgRiauhH255KwwVuGJfnSdyB-WnkQ6NY4-TyJY79ISGZk6FHWpooFNDQlqvg5keW20Nm/s320/DSC03743.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Filling station attendants in Ghana. The one on the right was celebrating her <br />
birthday, and wanted to share that with us.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We found the people, almost universally, friendly and welcoming. We saw surly officials in most countries, but the ordinary people, at the filling stations, the shops, villages, hotels and camping sites were all interested in our voyage, eager to talk about it, and eager to welcome us and show us their towns. In only a few places did we feel that we might be in danger of being robbed. In fact, we felt that the ordinary people were more likely to protect us from danger.<br />
<br />
A word on begging: In most countries the only foreign word children know is "money" or "cadeau" or gift. We became very irritated at being asked for gifts by all sorts of people, and we thought about this. After all, in India a pilgrim is more likely o beg than be begged from? Should a visitor not be welcomed with a gift, instead of being begged from? And, in fact, at Mopti a young guy insisted on giving me a straw hat, so I would remember meeting him!<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMdt_cH8K9bL3jVNQSaYSmx3Y83_2SFHcsXISq3hNY4qp7jeBZqv0vVpX40ffrfcHfn1wXUUZP6n_gWtTkuzc1RtKww4JlGTXN72XTffwuTAOvyHy2WtIYNo82HK6d8Iw1LnjivClDl_aF/s1600/DSC_6381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMdt_cH8K9bL3jVNQSaYSmx3Y83_2SFHcsXISq3hNY4qp7jeBZqv0vVpX40ffrfcHfn1wXUUZP6n_gWtTkuzc1RtKww4JlGTXN72XTffwuTAOvyHy2WtIYNo82HK6d8Iw1LnjivClDl_aF/s320/DSC_6381.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friends we had met for the first time!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1Wv1e1jrs9R6cYqC3IoADD7bF_Njm99xjpy1GoT0FsU8mo3KbkfgOon2vrgx2tnD1nSB7KWg6GX96b5WlRb7l2ZpgIjG89BBFXmVRlzUJ6esiHMhjvJk7fPM1l_8DVbGIYybV8RqsJBQ/s1600/DSC_5267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1Wv1e1jrs9R6cYqC3IoADD7bF_Njm99xjpy1GoT0FsU8mo3KbkfgOon2vrgx2tnD1nSB7KWg6GX96b5WlRb7l2ZpgIjG89BBFXmVRlzUJ6esiHMhjvJk7fPM1l_8DVbGIYybV8RqsJBQ/s320/DSC_5267.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kids in Cameroun asking for 'cadeau'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We clearly saw that this begging complex has been abetter by some travelers handing out gifts, so people expect this. In the end we came to the conclusion that, in many cases, what the people really wanted was some contact, some engagement with us, and once we started talking to them, and gave them our card, they were happy.<br />
<br />
And is this not why we travel? To get to know people, to meet and talk, share ideas and experiences?<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdPE8s6fNKg3YLmGS-Anjrz_7leaGkTx0EHVHNAbX0Rc1nfrTr7S2qcV6ckgoqHiP9LL2CNX5m8v_qBe9EIRVnbd7l9YOIOJAVGtByANg8HL6zW5vy0rGHqaISQAJWWalqj9hK4hg_2G6/s1600/DSC_6819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdPE8s6fNKg3YLmGS-Anjrz_7leaGkTx0EHVHNAbX0Rc1nfrTr7S2qcV6ckgoqHiP9LL2CNX5m8v_qBe9EIRVnbd7l9YOIOJAVGtByANg8HL6zW5vy0rGHqaISQAJWWalqj9hK4hg_2G6/s320/DSC_6819.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Cruiser and our Turbo tent.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Gearheads will want to know how the vehicles held up. My old, 1988 Land Cruiser, an FJ62 petrol model, needed the most work, mostly because the preparation was not done well enough. In fact, I have just done some work that should have been done before we left. Not that I did not ask for it to be done, and paid for it! So, I have come to a few conclusions: Trust nobody, and if you are not prepared to repair something yourself, do not have it with you. On my Cruiser, we had problems with the oil seals on the front driveshafts, and had them repaired in Nouakchott, Mauritania. Here we did some work on the brakes, and the guys did half the job, I finished it back home. We had radiator problems all the way, and I have now had a new top tank constructed for the radiator. The car used about 5 000 liter of fuel, and only hesitated when we fuelled from a dirty jerrycan, despite having a filter in the car, and clogged the fuel filter. I had problems with the brakes, and only now is the problem resolved, I hope. But she is ready to do the trip again!<br />
<br />
My BFG AT tires worked well, and we only had punctures where the labels inside teh tires rubbed against the inner tubes. I learnt to put baby powder in the tires!<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaSH-l6l9utG_sl2oWwSnzJpvDIgIoATEDv4q8dxhf8AUInwcv1NIIFVVjbI_4MOQk-5NNYVZyeEPfdKzhiInqjW51zxY1hZ6aDNFUKSW_cnDgnVqvWb-6owV6oZMAYtE8wfh2VopDOJ2o/s1600/DSC_6820.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaSH-l6l9utG_sl2oWwSnzJpvDIgIoATEDv4q8dxhf8AUInwcv1NIIFVVjbI_4MOQk-5NNYVZyeEPfdKzhiInqjW51zxY1hZ6aDNFUKSW_cnDgnVqvWb-6owV6oZMAYtE8wfh2VopDOJ2o/s320/DSC_6820.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stephanus' Cruiser pickup and Alucab</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Stephanus had a new Cruiser pickup with an Alucab and Hannibal awnings. He had no problems, changed oil in Mali and again in Tsumeb. He had one problem: A fuse connection was badly soldered, and so his electronically controlled diesel engine refused to run. A shade tree mechanic in Nouakchott soldered it back, and that was that, except for a bad smell in his aircon towards the end of the trip. He used Bridgestones, and also had no problems, in fact his vehicle handled the worst roads the best. He had two punctures, kilometers apart, while we were racing the dark to Ouagadougou. Both made by 6mm bolts! We joked that he had run over a bicycle, and that we will find tooth marks on the tires as well.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8npgTk6CgwU8ly6qCWoDBxCvHWicoxozLmkbvgJ0stlJlepxC2mq7_iPvR_oSacNo9LDaLfvL-uXns5ngO2hIyYSY05-SHyL5mQynb-g4vmp66foePQFKlCPpDyCUBvlWzQ4xIqAnxUyj/s1600/DSC_6821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8npgTk6CgwU8ly6qCWoDBxCvHWicoxozLmkbvgJ0stlJlepxC2mq7_iPvR_oSacNo9LDaLfvL-uXns5ngO2hIyYSY05-SHyL5mQynb-g4vmp66foePQFKlCPpDyCUBvlWzQ4xIqAnxUyj/s320/DSC_6821.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hans with his Land Rover Puma</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Hans had a Land Rover Puma. This heavily modified vehicle usually led the way and did very well. However, on the bad Mamfe road, breaking trail, he slid into the ditch twice, and the clutch packed up completely in Gabon, causing a major drama complete with 300 km tow, parts being ordered from all over, and then a mad dash to catch up with us before the Angolan visas expired. A rear wheel back plate cracked and took the traction control sensor with it, threatening the brake pipe. We had this brazed up in Tsumeb, and found that the other side backplate had also cracked. Clearly not up to the job. But that made me think: Did the bad road holding in the mud not have something to do with the traction control? His BFG Mud tires worked very well, and he had no punctures.<br />
<br />
For camping, we had a Turbo tent, with an alternative arrangement to sleep in the car. For the rest we had 12 ammo boxes and a 32 liter Engel fridge, a Cobb stove and Jiko petrol stove. The Jiko worked twice, having to be cleaned up both times half way through the cooking, so spent the rest of the trip in the crate. The Cobb worked well, but needed a lot of cleaning. I had two three-legged cast iron pots, which I sold in Mauritania, they were just too unwieldy and hard to pack. Our setup was not ideal for this sort of trip, where we often had to break camp, drive all day, set up camp and sleep, only to have to do the same tomorrow. We considered a rooftop tent, and while this would have been more convenient, I still wonder if the climbing up and down would have been worth the trouble.<br />
<br />
Stephanus had the Alucab rigged to sleep inside, and their awning worked well. Setting up and knocking down took maybe ten minutes. They had South African gas bottles that could be refilled, although the stove was not happy with the quality of the gas.<br />
<br />
Hans had the Landy rigged up with an 'upstairs' bedroom, and that was very comfortable. Combined with an awning they were well set up for overnight camping, and could pack up in ten minutes or so.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>A lot of people had asked me what we are going to do next. Well, mentioning this to my wife makes her hair go curly! What about the silk route to Samarkand? No, in all probability we will do the Kruger or Kgalakgadi parks next year. And maybe a diving expedition to Mozambique? Who knows?</div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-17577668245725557482011-11-03T06:29:00.000-07:002011-11-03T06:43:02.791-07:00The last leg!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOar-RoB_aFftjXgia7PVHeLr81tBl9E5NZ0DYkOLOQD3S_Pw__bD0gKB0QivlIOkUq13wjqYNxvkKV_dhwfwSt6-KrijOWFx4YKOv1sgShjIFraOEo97liPhg2y3ziaCKLtm9XY62DmCg/s1600/Bateleur.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOar-RoB_aFftjXgia7PVHeLr81tBl9E5NZ0DYkOLOQD3S_Pw__bD0gKB0QivlIOkUq13wjqYNxvkKV_dhwfwSt6-KrijOWFx4YKOv1sgShjIFraOEo97liPhg2y3ziaCKLtm9XY62DmCg/s320/Bateleur.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Welcome to the park!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggM8ddJJkP8TgHi8jHvC8AF5o0ogzEG7CnAOFiegfiIZzoBvhztPtPHZ7esrdTwPpk9T8fifr8H30eHff3IZUlcfpsudlXGREsC4TdUMy6tDtT9LQtLDp-b20kodF9xpzoW6qbZWbSYDyq/s1600/Lions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggM8ddJJkP8TgHi8jHvC8AF5o0ogzEG7CnAOFiegfiIZzoBvhztPtPHZ7esrdTwPpk9T8fifr8H30eHff3IZUlcfpsudlXGREsC4TdUMy6tDtT9LQtLDp-b20kodF9xpzoW6qbZWbSYDyq/s320/Lions.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where did you come from?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We spent a few days in the Kgalagadi transfrontier park, getting to terms that our voyage is almost over. Yachtsmen on long voyages speak of 're-entry blues' and we wondered what we would encounter, once home. Would the translation work resume? Would the few business contacts we had made during the trip come to anything? Where did we hide the keys to the safe? What is the pin code for the Blackberry we had left in the safe?<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdA2T8nFzeg_PA-3SU10cedy3ILfQitLPKBUZcbaVyBTMUAZS_U_CinsuAmCamp3VZAK9H5_qRqjubST78Z556v1fiQFDJnRbcLNGtP6B8LgfcPkrQmWSUCbVvKmBkMuS6RAXS9-3LGJ8y/s1600/Boring%2521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdA2T8nFzeg_PA-3SU10cedy3ILfQitLPKBUZcbaVyBTMUAZS_U_CinsuAmCamp3VZAK9H5_qRqjubST78Z556v1fiQFDJnRbcLNGtP6B8LgfcPkrQmWSUCbVvKmBkMuS6RAXS9-3LGJ8y/s320/Boring%2521.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is getting boring! Enough!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The radiator did not like the last few hundred kilometers of gravel road in Namibia and the very bad corrugations in the park, so it started leaking again, but we were used to that by now. And so we listened to the hum of the big six cylinder Toyota engine feasting on South African petrol, and watched the kilometers slide by, until home.<br />
<br />
And we thought about what the voyage had meant to us. We are certainly wiser, more experienced in driving in mud, and we have had our views of Africa and its people reconfirmed. It is a magnificent, vast continent, with magnificent people. We have seen acts of kindness and friendship, and a few, only a few less friendly attitudes. We have seen beautiful scenery, and awful destruction of the forests.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn98TCvvrc8MaaMY5DJ5i9Mi3xj0F4du_x8bdNdfmN2ljzPrILHMmxPy6W3DuE0LxGci-ja8JTXLiAje51ERVAuCkdLrssJR1d_miEXqwrWtV24EBbr3VrpSwTd9YdmbVeYXLTaOuslxr-/s1600/Home%2521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn98TCvvrc8MaaMY5DJ5i9Mi3xj0F4du_x8bdNdfmN2ljzPrILHMmxPy6W3DuE0LxGci-ja8JTXLiAje51ERVAuCkdLrssJR1d_miEXqwrWtV24EBbr3VrpSwTd9YdmbVeYXLTaOuslxr-/s320/Home%2521.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Home, sweet home.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>So we come to the end of our trip, but not yet of this blog. Thanks for reading and following our adventures. Some people had difficulties in giving feedbask, so I have updated our links to give an e-mail account.<br />
<br />
</div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-61691388669189706982011-10-30T10:27:00.000-07:002011-11-01T08:20:55.386-07:00And so to Namibia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><!--StartFragment--> <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_1AHcM_qEji8epSHTBl8t-8DQp0DMHbQkSnkP3Z5v46_KXpuOHenyGRQ0KjwGEKKwMe01qjE5XXXu8aBQ0mC1_bb83-NTet0gku80wC0dSoB75skIu_ou9fqoeyihludxIGLqdamCnrUS/s1600/Namibia+road.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_1AHcM_qEji8epSHTBl8t-8DQp0DMHbQkSnkP3Z5v46_KXpuOHenyGRQ0KjwGEKKwMe01qjE5XXXu8aBQ0mC1_bb83-NTet0gku80wC0dSoB75skIu_ou9fqoeyihludxIGLqdamCnrUS/s320/Namibia+road.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Namibian roads</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_1AHcM_qEji8epSHTBl8t-8DQp0DMHbQkSnkP3Z5v46_KXpuOHenyGRQ0KjwGEKKwMe01qjE5XXXu8aBQ0mC1_bb83-NTet0gku80wC0dSoB75skIu_ou9fqoeyihludxIGLqdamCnrUS/s1600/Namibia+road.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; color: black;"></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';">Crossing into Namibia was a pleasant experience, after so many border crossings. The officials were, with one exception, friendly, and seemed to enjoy their jobs. The lady responsible for the road tax made jokes, and asked about our trip.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwitPOh7py3Q6b2rN7hRHKfQyEBaQRRmy6due0TUavn_CBFXgCZa2VT-bqFT_wZjBynn2eFe6QFr9LZke4te1El2IL0RnTrmWAYr4oE0ZHazeebzgczuZM8DkmKJroQAaRjbFUn0mTmHg2/s1600/Frogs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwitPOh7py3Q6b2rN7hRHKfQyEBaQRRmy6due0TUavn_CBFXgCZa2VT-bqFT_wZjBynn2eFe6QFr9LZke4te1El2IL0RnTrmWAYr4oE0ZHazeebzgczuZM8DkmKJroQAaRjbFUn0mTmHg2/s320/Frogs.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frogs, not catching mosquitos</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">And after a small orgy of shopping at the border shopping area we took the lovely smooth road towards Tsumeb. We had to concentrate to drive on the left side again, and we had to keep watching the speed, because now my radiator was acting up again. Another stop, some more epoxy and 3 liters of water and we were off again, to arrive at Tsumeb and a beautiful, clean and spacious camp site at sunset.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"><br />
</span>Scientists around the world: relax! The rumours about a reduction of the numbers of frogs, and specifically the African Bullfrog, are unfounded. In the pond of the Kupferquelle campsite there are many, roaring away at up to 80 decibels, all night. And they were not eating mosquitos! Oh no, they had much more important things in mind!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br />
</span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">We also saw, along the road, signs of the great fire that had devastated Etosha recently. Hundreds of square kilometers were burnt to cinders, and the people told of herds of elephants, rhino, lions, and what not else, burnt to death or maimed beyond survival.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIsVxCCydcWdwiRUx-bndpw_SG2vmZJGOmuSqRh00bGGFDYpTAVwbz-L81CunfcwNaOflKrwMlQ0L83jE9PShdyp3DY2JjOupDP5XqweEO9S8vO7VlOOScyDMuOMbEU2ZdQnjbltH2MkID/s1600/Hairdressing+in+Tsumeb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIsVxCCydcWdwiRUx-bndpw_SG2vmZJGOmuSqRh00bGGFDYpTAVwbz-L81CunfcwNaOflKrwMlQ0L83jE9PShdyp3DY2JjOupDP5XqweEO9S8vO7VlOOScyDMuOMbEU2ZdQnjbltH2MkID/s320/Hairdressing+in+Tsumeb.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our last camp together, and the ladies had to get their<br />
hair looked into.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">It was good meeting up again with people who laugh at the same jokes as us, and have a similar view of workmanship. Hannes, a little bored on a Sunday, helped repair the brake backplate on the Landy, and soldered my radiator with great care. And he would not take money for it! We ordered him to take his lady wife to dinner. If anyone needs the services of a good boilermaker, Hannes is your man!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4gxbq1kHm9vfFc6ikbrH_RPo0yPtCp8039PdUt4kWa2eT0C0j8YwGgko2R-6K2-S1PL2fajZYMGlSgLSJRpXnnVt2g-H3-7v79QiJVsH2sSeA8WdA83fu19D8BvpRdDRnhcbdqAQxmmoG/s1600/Radiator+again.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4gxbq1kHm9vfFc6ikbrH_RPo0yPtCp8039PdUt4kWa2eT0C0j8YwGgko2R-6K2-S1PL2fajZYMGlSgLSJRpXnnVt2g-H3-7v79QiJVsH2sSeA8WdA83fu19D8BvpRdDRnhcbdqAQxmmoG/s320/Radiator+again.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hannes attending to the radiator</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">An</span><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">d we relaxed, reminisced about our voyage, and had a last dinner together at the Dros. Then each went his own way. We headed for Windhoek, in a loose formation with Stephanus and Mariana, but they decided to press on for Marienthal and points south, while we wanted to eat at Joe's, an event that had escaped us last time. And I was looking for Shell oil, the Cruiser was last serviced in Ghana, and an oil and filter change is sorely needed. But initial results would make me recommend that you sell any shares you may have in the company: no Shell along the road had Helix oil, and none would change oil in any case. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">In fact, I was informed that garages do not change oil any more. So who does, then?<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjCskf63WawCFos-_dG1_-6PBT5wpB1S7DKmPpr0EImI53qvSfsTypXfajy4J3eW0NALziZJjvDECLGAEgu_3MQ3mus9GB3-gCFL5pD8jAUyUuQSY4mYnF1YiEMj9PkyroR0i-NRh5Wwu/s1600/Joe%2527s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjCskf63WawCFos-_dG1_-6PBT5wpB1S7DKmPpr0EImI53qvSfsTypXfajy4J3eW0NALziZJjvDECLGAEgu_3MQ3mus9GB3-gCFL5pD8jAUyUuQSY4mYnF1YiEMj9PkyroR0i-NRh5Wwu/s320/Joe%2527s.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Joe's Beer house.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBjCskf63WawCFos-_dG1_-6PBT5wpB1S7DKmPpr0EImI53qvSfsTypXfajy4J3eW0NALziZJjvDECLGAEgu_3MQ3mus9GB3-gCFL5pD8jAUyUuQSY4mYnF1YiEMj9PkyroR0i-NRh5Wwu/s1600/Joe%2527s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="-webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; color: black;"></span></a><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">It turned out that Danie of Safari Vehicle Repairs (</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">Danie: 081 128 8594) could. Again, our sort of work ethic: friendly, professional, thorough. After a night’s rest at the Chameleon Backpackers, and two hours at the workshop we were ready for the road. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDG9d2W7Haqb-h8abx1VRKFtgrJf5vf-G9pH1ZagleogF9o_PT8L0q956Hp0_CHG1uY-lfsL_4uevMlk9DX-GteJyrwxyrUf0CcRIo_cUU_uazEO_xPdMkPCN-vT1AM5UM1XjZyJmuAJZ/s1600/Tough+life.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSDG9d2W7Haqb-h8abx1VRKFtgrJf5vf-G9pH1ZagleogF9o_PT8L0q956Hp0_CHG1uY-lfsL_4uevMlk9DX-GteJyrwxyrUf0CcRIo_cUU_uazEO_xPdMkPCN-vT1AM5UM1XjZyJmuAJZ/s320/Tough+life.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Life is tough in the Kalahari!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 11.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 0pt;">And so on the way south. At Marienthal we turned into the Auob valley, and at the Auob Country Lodge, just outside Gotchas we called a halt. </span><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">A good night’s rest, and we were ready for the Trans-frontier park. It was a little nerve-wracking, checking out of Namibia, and only checking into South Africa the next day, but we were the only people who were worried. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";">And, even if not properly checked in, we were in South Africa!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"><br />
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<span lang="EN-ZA" style="font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div><!--EndFragment--> </div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-64398162227981120752011-10-23T08:53:00.000-07:002011-11-01T08:20:55.388-07:00Back together for the finish<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqvByI32GNTzCyTfayd3iQ4CaM2wCna3jAnYeMCBVFVYZTNMEA555cT52VAb9LUgDhMBpsd2GnNeySewkRH6Ne9Q_pnKQwwR6qZJdZh71jflqWwzPu29UNpxrgL6xQ3F6GHvltF58lWIIM/s1600/Ambriz%252C+memories+of+the+past.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqvByI32GNTzCyTfayd3iQ4CaM2wCna3jAnYeMCBVFVYZTNMEA555cT52VAb9LUgDhMBpsd2GnNeySewkRH6Ne9Q_pnKQwwR6qZJdZh71jflqWwzPu29UNpxrgL6xQ3F6GHvltF58lWIIM/s320/Ambriz%252C+memories+of+the+past.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Memories: Ambriz town center</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times;"></span>Our first few days in Angola we spent at Tomboco and Ambriz, and then decided to take the old road down the coast instead of the 'new' road that had become a nightmare as the tar disintegrated. For the first few kilometers we followed the tracks of military vehicles that patrol the coastal cliffs, but these petered out and we ended up taking small and smaller tracks until we ended at a village where a motorcyclist offered to lead us back to the 'tarred' road.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">We stopped at Barra dos Dandes, our insides shaken up once again. South African hospitality came to the fore, and some people in the oil industry offered the facilities for us to camp, shower and make them a nice dinner. </span> </div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6d-QYdZJoNmS7OV86YAllTWvBIgQ2-D-Cq3Ss8bLYe49nIVQVJ2DybuYLAf7hwtRy8f6loG-e7KejoOzJzZOnDfckXSbOiTaAt5KBgTcuXU9oytv53wG4V4mxpG9HTbiOjwQUBlb7DNz4/s1600/Radiator+repairs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6d-QYdZJoNmS7OV86YAllTWvBIgQ2-D-Cq3Ss8bLYe49nIVQVJ2DybuYLAf7hwtRy8f6loG-e7KejoOzJzZOnDfckXSbOiTaAt5KBgTcuXU9oytv53wG4V4mxpG9HTbiOjwQUBlb7DNz4/s320/Radiator+repairs.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Radiator repairs</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">After a few days with friends in Luanda we took the road to Benguela, where the radiator seam opened </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">again. Maestro Jose offered to solder it with his soldering iron, but once the radiator was out he doubled his quotation. Not a successful business relationship! The repairs held over the next day, but the state of the road, which had been under construction in 2008 and now had disintegrated had us resort to epoxy patching again.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI-MGFTcnKMt_3-ombVLLy80I_uZpcimYiBqifQ8Gr5NVVHKpn9B91b8pbp0ntXi86gOnVEF9G8EKByTghxLuVkqRXsjsN8tyZNf4wdoPES7YLLe9xBfk6OHeDpU7mj1oH6q-zcRKVOU48/s1600/Beach+at+ship%2527s+graveyard%252C+Luanda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI-MGFTcnKMt_3-ombVLLy80I_uZpcimYiBqifQ8Gr5NVVHKpn9B91b8pbp0ntXi86gOnVEF9G8EKByTghxLuVkqRXsjsN8tyZNf4wdoPES7YLLe9xBfk6OHeDpU7mj1oH6q-zcRKVOU48/s320/Beach+at+ship%2527s+graveyard%252C+Luanda.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ship's graveyard outside Luanda</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">We spent two nights in Lubango, while the Swarts came racing down from Tomboco, putting in twelve and fourteen hour drives. They had just made it through the Dolisie road as the rains came down, and where we had to deal with powder </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">dust, they were up to the doors in mud. A few days later and the road would have been closed.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">And at last, at Onjiva, they caught up with us! We went slowly, sparing the radiator, and marveling at what could become of a main road when it is not maintained, and badly overloaded. The tracks through the bush were better than the road. Hans came zooming through, and we had dinner together like in the Sahara!</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt8M03L0yJPzHnn2CT_OlpHvARfR3M4ugC23iyuvhfc5UnrOyfolkho3weehKmx4rs3U9n6khPiYLGszjA2c3Pr2wzBwy4sl1-dr5CUZ_UATjPcX-xnwOqIBolEI4nA2fyimojMbSgXdC_/s1600/New+freinds+in+the+oil+industry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt8M03L0yJPzHnn2CT_OlpHvARfR3M4ugC23iyuvhfc5UnrOyfolkho3weehKmx4rs3U9n6khPiYLGszjA2c3Pr2wzBwy4sl1-dr5CUZ_UATjPcX-xnwOqIBolEI4nA2fyimojMbSgXdC_/s320/New+freinds+in+the+oil+industry.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">South African hospitality</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">And the next morning we tackled the border, a relatively quick and painless exercise.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">What did we make of Angola? We were pleasantly surprised by the speed of development. Some cities, barely slums and construction sites three years ago, now have lovely roads and beautiful buildings. Some ex-patriates complained about the lack of capacity of Government and the impossibility of finding good workers. Yet we found some pleasant, efficient young people, keen to study and learn, eager to serve, and a good basis for development. </span> </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGG-5NoI2PjVMtClF0e0o1S7iqBlu_4_kICd9rqQ4YqqOvvMK-ebfDt7vl2Fqpe1i9fIjmqfyB_nXv_DmoFJM6M7EKU5CTAfwFgsK1FMjV000BXrUYjjgTEwL3oCwunlHqi4tx75da34he/s1600/Beach+fun%252C+Luanda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGG-5NoI2PjVMtClF0e0o1S7iqBlu_4_kICd9rqQ4YqqOvvMK-ebfDt7vl2Fqpe1i9fIjmqfyB_nXv_DmoFJM6M7EKU5CTAfwFgsK1FMjV000BXrUYjjgTEwL3oCwunlHqi4tx75da34he/s320/Beach+fun%252C+Luanda.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fun on Luanda beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"> </div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">Politically the country is interesting. On the main square we saw imposing provincial headquarters of the MPLA, but flags of opposition parties were to be seen in many villages. The people were pleasant and welcoming, but the officials were often surly and aggressive. We had the impression that the central control was beginning to crumble, with fuel distribution by the state run SONANGOL not keeping up with the rate of development. At the same time the private sector seems to be booming and taking over especially around the edges of the country. </span> </div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKMxxYYxF2cwO091G-5H7ax0AJMd55v6FbGAsDNAT7PwZ_B27B4jkVmhEoI1bu4dh382JD8sXNqBJ5SefNtZxavXC3TXUZZE2uajzoFZL_Z6CaEk2ox0RvwO6G6tiOQJdoxiH6NZQiyMp1/s1600/Luanda+sunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKMxxYYxF2cwO091G-5H7ax0AJMd55v6FbGAsDNAT7PwZ_B27B4jkVmhEoI1bu4dh382JD8sXNqBJ5SefNtZxavXC3TXUZZE2uajzoFZL_Z6CaEk2ox0RvwO6G6tiOQJdoxiH6NZQiyMp1/s320/Luanda+sunset.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luanda sunset</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">Ex-patriates we spoke with confirmed this impression, and aded that they thought the Government was quite worried about the 'Arab Spring' effect among the youth, but that there was still a window of opportunity to use the oil wealth to build up a solid economy.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;">Let us hope that the beauty of the country, the fertility of the land and the hospitality of the people could be turned into assets.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tundavala view</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3AXisLqgWy66kEMKO9FLDbUK9z6mL6yEglg9g8_QAhFD4OZ4Dsp33TDMFjfhU8McYZbPMLdZ8lXaf2X0T31eCc-GkN2HdSN32QrY1mKNAT5xkhmSdWXIrKZF4oUWggT5YE5aEUDBHxOH3/s1600/Leba+falls.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3AXisLqgWy66kEMKO9FLDbUK9z6mL6yEglg9g8_QAhFD4OZ4Dsp33TDMFjfhU8McYZbPMLdZ8lXaf2X0T31eCc-GkN2HdSN32QrY1mKNAT5xkhmSdWXIrKZF4oUWggT5YE5aEUDBHxOH3/s320/Leba+falls.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leba falls</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibIIflLvSOAkOoLBL9kfOZqiSZ0xRqVQTwHq4Y0od9jdjVzaarpxha2fE52D0sJSYe37YKxQZb1uYbHBZxYsgbKSAFoy8Yd_MKi0T0y_vx9LN9_kw7xfdbVIqG_CZ_1K_l6HtdZsVUt7mY/s1600/Palm+nut+vulture+at+Barra+dos+Dande.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibIIflLvSOAkOoLBL9kfOZqiSZ0xRqVQTwHq4Y0od9jdjVzaarpxha2fE52D0sJSYe37YKxQZb1uYbHBZxYsgbKSAFoy8Yd_MKi0T0y_vx9LN9_kw7xfdbVIqG_CZ_1K_l6HtdZsVUt7mY/s320/Palm+nut+vulture+at+Barra+dos+Dande.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palm nut vulture?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjXAkf0walWL7dj8ZekSAI6KVTxgcz3itsB4djJwNIb5SW51EiteKKSs7ZVSYVahnBaNEkVhUAUFTdqef_Fz1boD4jklff69g04BpbAB9JvooJWWfnU-S7NR18vRjrxwlog3NXKTmSmKy7/s1600/Sunset+over+Angola.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjXAkf0walWL7dj8ZekSAI6KVTxgcz3itsB4djJwNIb5SW51EiteKKSs7ZVSYVahnBaNEkVhUAUFTdqef_Fz1boD4jklff69g04BpbAB9JvooJWWfnU-S7NR18vRjrxwlog3NXKTmSmKy7/s320/Sunset+over+Angola.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset: Leba falls</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE75zlF1YXmY2FQxAKRhbB6-v5uvHYwtmk_zXCZQBadNw9es_2ab9hc6ysDVOF3C6LP3Rs7KU2-21YHVVIb8YLUpbHAaO5mgVF93Umv7vee5g0UKdCh_Agy4Laa2nD0XXJfXVoFhX6wecE/s1600/The+Landy+rejoins%2521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE75zlF1YXmY2FQxAKRhbB6-v5uvHYwtmk_zXCZQBadNw9es_2ab9hc6ysDVOF3C6LP3Rs7KU2-21YHVVIb8YLUpbHAaO5mgVF93Umv7vee5g0UKdCh_Agy4Laa2nD0XXJfXVoFhX6wecE/s320/The+Landy+rejoins%2521.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Landy rejoins! Onjiva</td></tr>
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</div></div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-21625993673881103792011-10-16T10:00:00.000-07:002011-11-01T08:20:55.390-07:00The forests are burning! The road south.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoupQ9Y5XXBnRGeXfTs1yFd1knWQ2g8Mce3qP0G9eUP7-vBeUP_4nl9KM7XZPp-S_TnpyGVqxKl6GV2YCLWpao5kKOQ1jRVtpVkf_PVxyy_yJEJ4nBE1uYdN7Z60GcJwie-35IQVy-2UKU/s1600/Oil+installations.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoupQ9Y5XXBnRGeXfTs1yFd1knWQ2g8Mce3qP0G9eUP7-vBeUP_4nl9KM7XZPp-S_TnpyGVqxKl6GV2YCLWpao5kKOQ1jRVtpVkf_PVxyy_yJEJ4nBE1uYdN7Z60GcJwie-35IQVy-2UKU/s320/Oil+installations.jpg" width="216" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gsas installation in the Gabonese forests</td></tr>
</tbody></table>We started our long run from the rain forests of Gabon down to Angola as the rains started. Our principal concern was the dates on our visas for Angola, but at the same time we knew that the rains would make our voyage just that much more difficult.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Hans and Elisme were still in Libreville, with no clear date when the Land Rover would be back on the road, and so we set off, first on a lovely tar road to Mouila, where the President of Gabon had visited just two days before, and then on a laterite road to the border, and a bad road from there into the Congo. Some Chinese were working on it, filling in bad holes, and grading, but for the rest there was thick, fine dust, heavy enough to make the car feel like it was going through deep water. What this would be like in the rains we did not want to guess. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzq39Fnrcnp-isgaZQr1gJ78qC0Jk5YgpFpmbv5WNJS8K-uhefJZsEFJP4vtmIKceg0wtv3OPBc7ZKAUMGZfz0Oie4jI1STGZyxvPY5w6whZp2KPUEbOhp_ELb3Hp3vh3x-eH8zYhZI4zv/s1600/Fire+in+the+forest.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzq39Fnrcnp-isgaZQr1gJ78qC0Jk5YgpFpmbv5WNJS8K-uhefJZsEFJP4vtmIKceg0wtv3OPBc7ZKAUMGZfz0Oie4jI1STGZyxvPY5w6whZp2KPUEbOhp_ELb3Hp3vh3x-eH8zYhZI4zv/s320/Fire+in+the+forest.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fire in the forest! The Crystal Mountains<br />
are already stripped.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span lang="EN-ZA">And all along the way, from the rain forests to the plateaus and savanna, the people were burning the </span>trees and bushes. Maybe they think the burnt fields would sprout faster, maybe they are opening up planting space in the forests, but even where banana plants had been set into the burnt patches we could see the signs of erosion of the forest soil. It was depressing to drive, for days on end, through burnt forests, where small houses are going up and children peer through the leaves at the passing cars.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">We thought that the many logging trucks carried smaller logs now than they did five years ago when we were here last. Still, majestic, tall slender trunks can be seen, but the slopes of the Crystal Mountains in the Congo ar covered by grass, pitted and scarred, where people told of dark, deep rain forests. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUqIad0tDSS_c6JcN9_lKpq3xfbesdcouu1mY96Ab3h4eItLlkElWHqrQxEUvZt_O8Bm62wa2mn3RDcF9grN2zN85W-o20wafOzMiDiCsag829-z_7u8kclrS3GJlIHHre2mTCd4vV9AD/s1600/New+road.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUqIad0tDSS_c6JcN9_lKpq3xfbesdcouu1mY96Ab3h4eItLlkElWHqrQxEUvZt_O8Bm62wa2mn3RDcF9grN2zN85W-o20wafOzMiDiCsag829-z_7u8kclrS3GJlIHHre2mTCd4vV9AD/s320/New+road.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Magnificent road through the Crystal Mountains.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span lang="EN-ZA">The main road from Dolisie to Pointe Noire, impassable five years ago, now has an impressive new surface, now bridges and complicated drainage works, but we wondered in the Chinese engineers had really anticipated the volume of water that would be coming down in the next few month. To us the channels looked inadequate, and the bare slopes seemed ready to dissolve into mud, to clog the drains and cause wash-outs.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxU2dmjBfxNkxXFCICY6nWehslvXzZyIqoJH_sGstF1LuvDFmXfToYBNuXDC5F4JZXuMxkEqCh90e-5CEsdpY7wjETwX7EB94XJEu4fSXMtaBLSJBfXI7wH86TKNQGyTxVS0yBf441TVSV/s1600/New+shack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxU2dmjBfxNkxXFCICY6nWehslvXzZyIqoJH_sGstF1LuvDFmXfToYBNuXDC5F4JZXuMxkEqCh90e-5CEsdpY7wjETwX7EB94XJEu4fSXMtaBLSJBfXI7wH86TKNQGyTxVS0yBf441TVSV/s320/New+shack.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A shack, a patch of bananas where the forest used to be, what<br />
more can you wish for? </td></tr>
</tbody></table><span lang="EN-ZA">Reliance on technology has its drawbacks, and for another time the GPS led us through Pointe Noire's central market, where a patient police officer walked before us, parting the crowds like a Moses. And then the Cabinda border.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">It was of great importance that the Angolan visa had an exit stamp from the Republic of Congo next to it, but since the Congo visa was in the other passports, the Congolese officials insisted that the stamps should go there. It took the Angolan Chief of Immigration to walk us back to his Congolese colleagues, who then found that there was no problem. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Cabinda was clean and orderly, with military well visible. It smelled of oil, and flashy cars were everywhere. We were going to camp with the Catholic Mission, but the Priest was nowhere to be seen, we could not check on the state of the toilets, and so we backtracked to a $ 200 per night hotel. The next day, after a tour of the Immigration offices, we went off looking for other, more reasonable hotels, but found ourselves at the border, where the Angolans checked us out quite quickly. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW78WR9Q7kk1ExH4GioBuzQ1oBXYf-NviTIqHmgYFroKTWudgKdZctnMQV4d4RGvMkfeGZYPsrm-Zvh7gDP0oYinVVP3OgmTTUacSDNTB62683QWaiLKnvd2xI0qxVTPi8uxvTsJxBTAxM/s1600/Overlanders+in+Congo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW78WR9Q7kk1ExH4GioBuzQ1oBXYf-NviTIqHmgYFroKTWudgKdZctnMQV4d4RGvMkfeGZYPsrm-Zvh7gDP0oYinVVP3OgmTTUacSDNTB62683QWaiLKnvd2xI0qxVTPi8uxvTsJxBTAxM/s320/Overlanders+in+Congo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Meeting other overlanders in the Congo</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span lang="EN-ZA">However, the DRC side was chaos. The road was dirty, the people unmanageable, and the immigration officials, although helpful at first, were reminded that tourists have to get their visas in their country of origin, and ours were issued in Gabon. Five hours later, after numerous calls to the Embassy, where eventually we found someone that answered, thanks to the help of an immigration officer. The Embassy called the DG of Immigration, who called someone else, who.... and as they were locking the gates for the day we were rushed through, passports were stamped, carnets processed, and we were in. But not before we had to tell the story of our voyage to curious officials, and had them poke in wonderment at our solar panel, our stoves, tool boxes, and bedding. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">After a night at yet another Catholic mission and another at a roadside place in Songololo, we were back at the border. The DRC immigration officer had no problem to stamp both passports, for a small administrative fee of say five dollars, make that fifteen, no twenty. Ten dollars and a packet of cigarettes, and we were at the Angolan immigration. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Here we stressed, since we had single entry visas, and were entering for the second time. Opinions differed, since we had only transited from one Angolan province to the other, and they did not make it easier, joking, asking about our itinerary, and attending to many other official duties, but in the end the stamps were in the passports, and we were in!<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Now we could afford to slow down, and take it in easy stages, waiting for news from Libreville, and enjoying the country and the people. We were a little annoyed at having to register with the police at check points and towns, but they were mostly nice people, and were clearly not quite sure what to do and why they had to do it. At least they helped us find fuel and bread. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDswbwN2LsOpfvaOeOomlGVABaxzfn83eYmXtNEdGEGHYS_AXmQkMYsjb02dYrsrCB0BMuhzBBpY_xlEsKIXHI3_S34pKPDGaack41GNtSXQWixcBGWPakiQEf6gqtq6geczAKCTmTULxa/s1600/Bad+road.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDswbwN2LsOpfvaOeOomlGVABaxzfn83eYmXtNEdGEGHYS_AXmQkMYsjb02dYrsrCB0BMuhzBBpY_xlEsKIXHI3_S34pKPDGaack41GNtSXQWixcBGWPakiQEf6gqtq6geczAKCTmTULxa/s320/Bad+road.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the road goes on and on... but what if the rains come down?<br />
The stretch from N'zeto to Luanda is bad.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span lang="EN-ZA">Towns that were small and quiet five years ago now sport imposing office buildings, schools run three sessions per day, and new housing projects spring up. Yet the development seems to be imposed, and not home grown. The main road from Mbanza Kongo to Nzeto is a now lovely tar road, but the road from there to Luanda seems not to have been maintained since, and was in a bad state. The coming rains will make it very difficult to pass. Fuel, once plentiful and cheap, is now sold in bottles along the road while the few filling stations are closed. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">And all the new settlers on the land seem to burn their patch of bush to open it up, and fertilise it with ash before the rains come. <o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-ZA">Our worries for the third couple in our team grows. They have finally received the last part, and will be able to get back on the road, a week and a half behind us. But the rains are setting in. Brazzaville had had a week of constant rain, and we have no reports of the road. <o:p></o:p></span></div></div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-1071236050606463122011-10-07T11:43:00.000-07:002011-11-01T08:20:55.392-07:00Gabon 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsVvcBQcOZqfRL1hTeBR8sJj0sO5nEQQ8yEGYTU3z6OZUhyphenhyphenxPE4viIjZpVFyDZgxVqsfdzOvsqT80pJIhlBuQ7VnpZN1eSB40pprcDaS7KogshnvFB35lQF7sUri7MFshLEDVSOTeGvxPY/s1600/Fisher.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><style>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPrTnZnoRutNACxfJtZJ1-ErvWA3TLh2As4KkGas5TRhWxGD6XmK1Gd-RKZ01tMWXJHW35QJ9yfXOoXWdmNyObzpFSg5NA8ZIAYQHnQxoLqygQK-L_9MrOtL5qUBKAW8TVxyfVCU9-lNy/s1600/Sick+Landy.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPrTnZnoRutNACxfJtZJ1-ErvWA3TLh2As4KkGas5TRhWxGD6XmK1Gd-RKZ01tMWXJHW35QJ9yfXOoXWdmNyObzpFSg5NA8ZIAYQHnQxoLqygQK-L_9MrOtL5qUBKAW8TVxyfVCU9-lNy/s320/Sick+Landy.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sick Landy</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">The Land Rover is in surgery: the parts have to come from London and South Africa, and it will take a week to be repaired. So the van Wyks and the Malherbes will carry on and blaze the way, while the Swarts will follow as soon as they can. The problem is the Angola visa: it is only valid till 24 October, and that seems to mean we have to be out of Angola by then. The Swarts will have to see when they get on the road, and we will try to smooth the way for them. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKLOa7uXmlwy-Jygy-MuRiWte7vSRHRxukpeWvJbfuNsDrs7mMISW7Nn0L3Aq-FvF74zcKY0a6BPCnzJtCe4e-4V0cIweTKHa-K-8cwkTR1czCBYMbiwb-QB-pwVaVeI38TeyypBRv6FL/s1600/Crossing+the+equator.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKLOa7uXmlwy-Jygy-MuRiWte7vSRHRxukpeWvJbfuNsDrs7mMISW7Nn0L3Aq-FvF74zcKY0a6BPCnzJtCe4e-4V0cIweTKHa-K-8cwkTR1czCBYMbiwb-QB-pwVaVeI38TeyypBRv6FL/s320/Crossing+the+equator.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crossing the equator, going south</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">While waiting we went to the lagoon area, and visited Omboué, on the coast. To get there we had to travel through 300 km of forest, including a forestry reserve and an oil concession where Shell seems to be pumping gas. The roads were in reasonable state, at least intide the concessions, but after that it was a little rough. To complicate matters I was not able to fill at the last town, and so we had to stop in the forest, get eaten by unseen bugs, while siphoning fuel from a jerrycan. </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3L9ATcLm40hy161wPBDrRs1A4uyBQ3ZIqigyHexka2afWW98aSgMd7ViKsEJejkvkIJEsZekAQ7DJE-5uJGBvb9p9RowqLgx4NUqCyG1uzEMPtKrSEV93Tk3fA800VBuGgBbUMs0e-12t/s1600/Lambarene+hospital.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3L9ATcLm40hy161wPBDrRs1A4uyBQ3ZIqigyHexka2afWW98aSgMd7ViKsEJejkvkIJEsZekAQ7DJE-5uJGBvb9p9RowqLgx4NUqCyG1uzEMPtKrSEV93Tk3fA800VBuGgBbUMs0e-12t/s320/Lambarene+hospital.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lambarene: Albert Schweizer's hospital</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYbX012twLyASqkBGu_7B6Y09dFNGseDvzSblxEe7eNEnDdcU7V8eWo7TRT-RLS9kaYI5MI1YZD0obl3EKrYQAWNLum9MTYAiwZK2kZHs1NXhOt3zGCfTm6Jg_sahGNS9cPZxvNaJHV18h/s1600/Slash+and+burn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYbX012twLyASqkBGu_7B6Y09dFNGseDvzSblxEe7eNEnDdcU7V8eWo7TRT-RLS9kaYI5MI1YZD0obl3EKrYQAWNLum9MTYAiwZK2kZHs1NXhOt3zGCfTm6Jg_sahGNS9cPZxvNaJHV18h/s320/Slash+and+burn.jpg" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slash and burn cultivation</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNP3ucwThDAs_kAjMrGc7LBTfdXcUY7BEn719TXPxQdH4XNMR_hPu9UClgcksUGK4EGe28PfL-DENid2vDbyDJCblsnZcamdkVGHb1hi5ihyphenhyphenI55eHBp9JtLMBImURA9acNXVRUptf7nfU/s1600/Beach.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNP3ucwThDAs_kAjMrGc7LBTfdXcUY7BEn719TXPxQdH4XNMR_hPu9UClgcksUGK4EGe28PfL-DENid2vDbyDJCblsnZcamdkVGHb1hi5ihyphenhyphenI55eHBp9JtLMBImURA9acNXVRUptf7nfU/s320/Beach.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Untouched beach</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9TMCZkWsOG2ZfsjHBQmQsEys2ZfhdTGyzMMdHoAttjc8CkP6jt7aR_Rux8k-spqiP2uszoWZBLnzgm0rW4nEaEBy8T7HoN49-LQOyPLKzlfPj928yo42HeLsWCVvN6QtcRepWVDvepKmI/s1600/Rain+forest+ride.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9TMCZkWsOG2ZfsjHBQmQsEys2ZfhdTGyzMMdHoAttjc8CkP6jt7aR_Rux8k-spqiP2uszoWZBLnzgm0rW4nEaEBy8T7HoN49-LQOyPLKzlfPj928yo42HeLsWCVvN6QtcRepWVDvepKmI/s320/Rain+forest+ride.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rain forest ride</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd8sot7dT1X4mpOgFqfVpTd5xlm6tiQX8lNlDrhbT-dgBwGXJSwbvrK9s5VXQ2GbB8RBARwdQYbxxzg5YnguHOXWRsRZjAwPL4Fu3xXxZweTusHpAcj7AC0wxDt_rp8-MX5rHj1-24CcE8/s1600/Lagoon+living+in+Omboue%25CC%2581.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd8sot7dT1X4mpOgFqfVpTd5xlm6tiQX8lNlDrhbT-dgBwGXJSwbvrK9s5VXQ2GbB8RBARwdQYbxxzg5YnguHOXWRsRZjAwPL4Fu3xXxZweTusHpAcj7AC0wxDt_rp8-MX5rHj1-24CcE8/s320/Lagoon+living+in+Omboue%25CC%2581.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Olako hotel, Omboue</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK_WQdkCLzSehLK_dB4dgV_98DxV2slYmlnp4lsguwN0TPIdjl0skM_2F_rEOBqRnkh38-cq237C4SS2yqeZ8gBtw7s4VMXAkFpPMILClIHown3BS6l3g-g7MfkWBfjs9I8fqDbLUzfEwN/s1600/Crocodile%2521.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK_WQdkCLzSehLK_dB4dgV_98DxV2slYmlnp4lsguwN0TPIdjl0skM_2F_rEOBqRnkh38-cq237C4SS2yqeZ8gBtw7s4VMXAkFpPMILClIHown3BS6l3g-g7MfkWBfjs9I8fqDbLUzfEwN/s320/Crocodile%2521.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">River crocodile</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsVvcBQcOZqfRL1hTeBR8sJj0sO5nEQQ8yEGYTU3z6OZUhyphenhyphenxPE4viIjZpVFyDZgxVqsfdzOvsqT80pJIhlBuQ7VnpZN1eSB40pprcDaS7KogshnvFB35lQF7sUri7MFshLEDVSOTeGvxPY/s1600/Fisher.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsVvcBQcOZqfRL1hTeBR8sJj0sO5nEQQ8yEGYTU3z6OZUhyphenhyphenxPE4viIjZpVFyDZgxVqsfdzOvsqT80pJIhlBuQ7VnpZN1eSB40pprcDaS7KogshnvFB35lQF7sUri7MFshLEDVSOTeGvxPY/s320/Fisher.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fisher. Anyone knows its name?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">Once arrived we visited one of the rivers into the rain forest, and were lucky to see a number of the rare river crocodiles, as well as a number of fish-catching birds. The next day we went to the beach, an untouched piece of coastline, except for numerous plastic bottles and bags. But we found the tracks of a leatherback turtle that had come ashore to lay eggs, and even the patch where she buried them. Let’s hope nobody finds it!</div></div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-45047178455843129322011-10-07T11:27:00.000-07:002011-11-01T08:20:55.394-07:00Gabon<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> <style>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilCcWd4WHWn0aR2qQCJlIoc9_pja5g2esYtb_fc0wOjEO0RanrNJ1VPVIsJ5-r-GnN-pH9pp-E0Crdb6BZ68DyXq7-k-RPC42rhczHQHUOgkNHLpwMvXDE0iAaZezr-WdsHoGUU3pRuflw/s1600/Road+works.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilCcWd4WHWn0aR2qQCJlIoc9_pja5g2esYtb_fc0wOjEO0RanrNJ1VPVIsJ5-r-GnN-pH9pp-E0Crdb6BZ68DyXq7-k-RPC42rhczHQHUOgkNHLpwMvXDE0iAaZezr-WdsHoGUU3pRuflw/s320/Road+works.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Road works</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">Entering Gabon was a little complicated: first we were interrogated by a policeman, who gave us permission to proceed to the Gendarmerie. Then we were free to go on to the town, Bitam, 32 kilometers on, where we had to do the immigration and also the customs procedures. At Customs there was nobody, and the Immigration officer, a very important man, deigned to tell us that we could also do the Customs procedures in Oyem, but fortunately after taking almost an hour at getting the passports stamped the someone had returned, and our carnets processed. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3SIM7geWiOZprO3YDUlUnq7YPrwDVAVSpoJTPHjXudH3G3J1gFN88aBQ9v0AZalayh5UxmJxaRSS8ZTToMqKTAUq_J4x6qmsYuRJd_DRhCm4qeXJ80ipCW3i8H6oSP_Y61ZUdL9oJ2PEf/s1600/Into+Gabon.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="215" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3SIM7geWiOZprO3YDUlUnq7YPrwDVAVSpoJTPHjXudH3G3J1gFN88aBQ9v0AZalayh5UxmJxaRSS8ZTToMqKTAUq_J4x6qmsYuRJd_DRhCm4qeXJ80ipCW3i8H6oSP_Y61ZUdL9oJ2PEf/s320/Into+Gabon.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Into Gabon</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">Then we took a beautiful road down to the south. We thought we would try to sleep in Mitzig, but we were there just after one, and could not see any hotels, so decided to press on to Njole, two hundred kilometers on. And guess what? The road fell apart, and we had to duck and dive, earning our Gabonese PHD (Pot Hole Dodging) degrees before getting into this bustling cross-roads town. The recommended Auberge St Jean was silent, only a watch-lady could be found, doing her washing in her underwear, so we looked for alternatives, and found the Hotel Papaya. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3aRXtgR8juh_QUWTl5CamZyz16w3odLj3Cm7plKYPtsnX3KAkSgrROw3vsx9hb9XMIRI7S6jM3TFy52DJMq3qduKiZYH5Z0_F8VUnt4Rlye7btceZWKBrbOXubSnamSCk_DiHbn292rrP/s1600/Logging+trucks.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3aRXtgR8juh_QUWTl5CamZyz16w3odLj3Cm7plKYPtsnX3KAkSgrROw3vsx9hb9XMIRI7S6jM3TFy52DJMq3qduKiZYH5Z0_F8VUnt4Rlye7btceZWKBrbOXubSnamSCk_DiHbn292rrP/s320/Logging+trucks.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Logging trucks</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">They did not have a generator, as their neighbouring competitor had, but at least they had a rather large courtyard, where the 'camping cars' could park. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6bbSzFFoxuzZqv-0gkQY-Glb5mKhu1NhK-wc99XPS894idm9KCF_Q8Ipr0E8GQaJhgWkXyqr2q-XJoRq3X-TtK3NOy_tQpOLqsS5Btm_9egStG9bQEvAE0yzDUmEjlVhxHBvUbx5ihoE/s1600/Equator.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6bbSzFFoxuzZqv-0gkQY-Glb5mKhu1NhK-wc99XPS894idm9KCF_Q8Ipr0E8GQaJhgWkXyqr2q-XJoRq3X-TtK3NOy_tQpOLqsS5Btm_9egStG9bQEvAE0yzDUmEjlVhxHBvUbx5ihoE/s320/Equator.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recrossing the equator, going north</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">The guys sleeping in the cars were entertained by disco music from two sides till early morning, we slept in a room and heard nothing. The next day we crossed the equator, dipping into the southern hemisphere before going north again, towards Libreville. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxOUV7AqkHhjOjrYtnKandj8tKsdcWdpCgTAN8zGdsoAVlYerIppFhtnodOD1cuZJVe4lHSz0Ckoyei5RpWcx6CBN7RgcY7UqTxDXESzwWklozm_YuwDK7II6TqFoyodiutBLLa7GC3nA/s1600/Bad+roads.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKxOUV7AqkHhjOjrYtnKandj8tKsdcWdpCgTAN8zGdsoAVlYerIppFhtnodOD1cuZJVe4lHSz0Ckoyei5RpWcx6CBN7RgcY7UqTxDXESzwWklozm_YuwDK7II6TqFoyodiutBLLa7GC3nA/s320/Bad+roads.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not so good road, approaching the capital</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">The road, good again, deteriorated as we approached the capital, and now we began to encounter blockades from the Road Security, from traffic policemen, and other people, all wanting to inspect the papers, needing to ascertain that the South African insurance is paid up, and that we carry the security equipment. They did also stop mini-buses, making the passengers alight in the rain, to ensure that they were not overloaded! </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Then we met someone who led us into the chaos of the Capital, where good roads, bad ones, new double highways and road works combined to give us a special experience. With police in between, pulling us over to check the papers once again. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy_s-W7T4-bMk0B_BAiKyjeZCgbZZhxwqGGcGo_0YIz8YF1Z4htN9oxYJ1MqlP52FtxnzkKnIRmxwzsd3PhufrvXohtGLKlvKIowPHqH_sj-Vj-DBCYhyoSDBHXx0F_fFyplOatCUp-wzr/s1600/Accra+spring+mod.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy_s-W7T4-bMk0B_BAiKyjeZCgbZZhxwqGGcGo_0YIz8YF1Z4htN9oxYJ1MqlP52FtxnzkKnIRmxwzsd3PhufrvXohtGLKlvKIowPHqH_sj-Vj-DBCYhyoSDBHXx0F_fFyplOatCUp-wzr/s320/Accra+spring+mod.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Accra spring modofocation</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">We spent the next few days squatting with friends, while trying to, and succeeding against the odds, to obtain our visas for the two Congo's, one being the most expensive yet, and this for a two day transit. And we also had several visits to the Angolan Embassy to try to get in writing that our single entry visas would be good for entry both into Cabinda and Angola proper. All we got was solemn assurances, so we have to go and see. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbFiAt-UsEOOsSN6fkjyiMTIJdsDKISIfkoy0woS9T-VnzryOJwDVyiwOaIuEhzaxhyGJWrmaNAvzMNUkeWdNeYlMBDJTjPdjWGGzMj8bjbfKvjoO2AmiifYxSQE5sPbCnOhcsqA2t1yXY/s1600/Scored+brakes.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbFiAt-UsEOOsSN6fkjyiMTIJdsDKISIfkoy0woS9T-VnzryOJwDVyiwOaIuEhzaxhyGJWrmaNAvzMNUkeWdNeYlMBDJTjPdjWGGzMj8bjbfKvjoO2AmiifYxSQE5sPbCnOhcsqA2t1yXY/s320/Scored+brakes.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scored brake shoes and drums</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">I also obtained brake shoes for the rear brakes which had to be replaced, and when I took the old ones off I could see why they were so badly eroded by the sand that got into the drums. The rubber covers for the inspection holes were not there. The fact that the circlips were also clearly the old ones make me think that the experts that had installed the brake shoes screwed up this job also. The problem with the automatic tension adjustment was clear: a spring was loose. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfpPuwrTNJtHXuapu_XyIWV3KOr3GN054OA9p3V0dDDgRS_KuoOL4J-PvqZ13QvocXxkRrCcjSxJyeQ0LB7ye8v63OWcypzmV4S78xgEXHQROav93IDYYqPy5zWRNDo2iQMcMybOEI2baa/s1600/Brake+parts.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfpPuwrTNJtHXuapu_XyIWV3KOr3GN054OA9p3V0dDDgRS_KuoOL4J-PvqZ13QvocXxkRrCcjSxJyeQ0LB7ye8v63OWcypzmV4S78xgEXHQROav93IDYYqPy5zWRNDo2iQMcMybOEI2baa/s320/Brake+parts.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Do these parts look new?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">New shoes in, with the old circlips, and the automatic adjustment seems to work, although it did not take up the slack as fast as I thought it should. The brakes work ok, but I guess it would need some seating too, as the drums are also rather scored. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">At the same time we started planning to visit the parks and lagoons in the south, a rather complicated affair as we have to pass through one of the oil fields. Permits we have, but we must advise in advance what times we expect to come in and out, and to find someone that understands is not easy. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7GpBiX_dyJm2GO54IwuUdv5e93m7wqBr8xxWoODi5yWplSdyGHvhEAIQikS0ETuSP7yVNNc2AX4kmHxyg5zvPThjkdlIGLDjnsGPRpifZ0EbwlpAJsJr2VoTzb1Dgq0PKw2kD1JIyc5-j/s1600/Brakes-covers.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7GpBiX_dyJm2GO54IwuUdv5e93m7wqBr8xxWoODi5yWplSdyGHvhEAIQikS0ETuSP7yVNNc2AX4kmHxyg5zvPThjkdlIGLDjnsGPRpifZ0EbwlpAJsJr2VoTzb1Dgq0PKw2kD1JIyc5-j/s320/Brakes-covers.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brake works: note missing plugs</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">Then we took the road to Lambarene, and whizzed over the equator for what we thought would be the last time. At Lambarene we had made up our minds not to stop but to push on for Mouila, from where we hoped to take the piste through the oilfields the next day. But that was not to be. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">We stopped at a natural spring, and the Land Rover would not get into gear. There was something wrong with the clutch, and the only solution was to tow it back to Lambarene, and seek advice. There we fell in with the French Army on maneuvers, and since they have Land Rovers some of their mechanics took a look. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">But in the end they all agreed that the only thing to do was to get it back to Libreville, since any work would entail that the gearboxes come out, which requires special handling equipment. In any case the parts would have to be ordered, it was unlikely that they would be available in Lambarene or even Libreville. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div></div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-19862273915826151522011-09-29T03:00:00.000-07:002011-11-01T08:20:55.395-07:00Southern Cameroon<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYFQiYhn03nNVAEja0iiZsVfiULTNSkY6WGe1kF6Er3yK7hXkSGV8VaZjsE5-vBS7obyFjoffmYUy9EnUXNffIRwHQjoSZKnQthEq_q5tgBOtALqoOaVLFzpOZz_T_wxZeie53mYtW1MF/s1600/Lobe+falls.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><style>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgut4cdaabQkoAh0zuWMQ3FJ8BZCxzRksiEyf7o9OHpXGlzDNFLC-pOtV4oIxfm2c70I0JJW2YXsF5Batc7v7Jgso385l7kz1yi8SYsGVoKV6Hui8Hbd8Vp2Tx2UMz4jXtwDe9EvkIkscAM/s1600/Islands+with+oil+tanker.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgut4cdaabQkoAh0zuWMQ3FJ8BZCxzRksiEyf7o9OHpXGlzDNFLC-pOtV4oIxfm2c70I0JJW2YXsF5Batc7v7Jgso385l7kz1yi8SYsGVoKV6Hui8Hbd8Vp2Tx2UMz4jXtwDe9EvkIkscAM/s320/Islands+with+oil+tanker.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Limbe bay.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">And then we went down the escarpment, a long, long descent and me trying to save the brakes and the clutch! There was some lovely scenery, but I had little time to see it, as we dodged police roadblocks, suicidal motorcyclists and bus taxi's. We ended up in Limbe, formerly called Victoria, a lovely town nestled in a valley below Mount Cameroon, with eroded coral islands, and an oil rig in the bay. The fishing harbour was nice, and their prawns fresh, as were the gambas we ate that night. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9UUrts5MbIpqxKRcDNbZIkrevHO8w0wBc4w13JZaXH7skSqYJq7NtkkD6isRcgAwW3dmYiPkEq2MLyJXlwqDQe9wJfAciAbAYZ3LuvzyNMIL51cFXoffIgDB5sh-VU8QccCX8O5e4Y5h/s1600/Limbe+bay.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid9UUrts5MbIpqxKRcDNbZIkrevHO8w0wBc4w13JZaXH7skSqYJq7NtkkD6isRcgAwW3dmYiPkEq2MLyJXlwqDQe9wJfAciAbAYZ3LuvzyNMIL51cFXoffIgDB5sh-VU8QccCX8O5e4Y5h/s320/Limbe+bay.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oil rig in Limbe bay</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">Having had little luck with my mysterious electric problem, I called in an electrician, who immediately concluded that there were two problems, and not one. The right hand lights work from a relay and the connection slips out. Easy! I wonder who did that modification.... But the indicator problem had us stumped. We concluded that it had something to do with the trailer plug that feeds the extra lights and indicators on the roof rack, but it was only when the guy got fed-up and insisted that we take out the cable altogether that we discovered that it had slipped out from its place behind the tailgate, and was mashed flat! Ten minutes later all was working. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF08jWMbgy8zCvRlIeqe9VuLsCgFGvuCqUuHcUC7WaDShLzR7rPEr8dFk4tCNjUY3jeBYInkRQastwsccLFqXBbfqrvM966mjZ3jaXNZp3dNTT2P7XSuAOOPx7UfU5_JVrlyEDNbHkqixE/s1600/Douala+traffic.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF08jWMbgy8zCvRlIeqe9VuLsCgFGvuCqUuHcUC7WaDShLzR7rPEr8dFk4tCNjUY3jeBYInkRQastwsccLFqXBbfqrvM966mjZ3jaXNZp3dNTT2P7XSuAOOPx7UfU5_JVrlyEDNbHkqixE/s320/Douala+traffic.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Douala traffic</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">Then we headed out to Douala, a real puzzle of a town, with chaotic traffic (nothing new in that) and a lack of road signs (nothing new here either.) It was nerve-wracking, but then we were through, and on a lovely road south, until we ended in Kribi, a beautiful beach town. One could imagine retiring here!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">On the horizon there are oil rigs and tankers, but no sign of pollution, at least not yet. We were camped on the beach, a really idillic setting, and despite the visible presences of oil rigs, the beaches were clean. All along the beach there were run-down beach cottages, small hotels that were closed or falling into disrepair. Yet the President was expected in town any day to launch the<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>construction of a deepwater port, as well as a gas processing plant. One wonders how much will remain of this sleepy piece of heaven...</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpwtREZr8lezzqr1xTyW8VOKcsu1IoiO-C4qO0H9PtPhZnwCu88c7Tsauf3fqfwnF8-29eM6fR5gsVVvBu1Nhmme02BHK0PxswyG-Ud_yb7Bv6soWOr_5w7jwGD3DwFtuhwlPTkVkEclIX/s1600/Douala.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpwtREZr8lezzqr1xTyW8VOKcsu1IoiO-C4qO0H9PtPhZnwCu88c7Tsauf3fqfwnF8-29eM6fR5gsVVvBu1Nhmme02BHK0PxswyG-Ud_yb7Bv6soWOr_5w7jwGD3DwFtuhwlPTkVkEclIX/s320/Douala.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Douala: view from the bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The next step on the way is to go east to the main road, then south to the border, and see how long the crossing takes, and where we can reach before nightfall. And where we can find an internet connection!</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIzVTf1ZRlc76cVWaEwlJw6J0pl9cnzUPcVvNFfj787Vp1ZV1k2DDo6a4wLOXkw5Hcb_T5GWO_6T5CRZLX5snuWhltezLElDbmib-o4e8DToFO7qamagXiHoVpVJJyEAs5hW2exzifRr8E/s1600/Fruit+sellers+by+the+roadside.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIzVTf1ZRlc76cVWaEwlJw6J0pl9cnzUPcVvNFfj787Vp1ZV1k2DDo6a4wLOXkw5Hcb_T5GWO_6T5CRZLX5snuWhltezLElDbmib-o4e8DToFO7qamagXiHoVpVJJyEAs5hW2exzifRr8E/s320/Fruit+sellers+by+the+roadside.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roadside business in Cameroon</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">And so we did: 150 km to the main north-south road, which took us almost five hours. There was only one major mud hole, and that could have been done without using four wheel drive, but the road is badly pot-holed, some bridges are almost gone, and it was slow going. So much so that we cut our planned trip short and stayed one more night in Cameroon, at Ambam, some 20 km short of the border. We found a hotel with a courtyard where the others could camp, and settled down to some 3G internetting. The menu at the little restaurant had porcupine, pangolin and viper on! A sure sign that we are approaching the rain forest country. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTNoNEJAhHkBx-p-J4H97v5KAmV6KrMMCmo38ysvR8OCBdo533TFkPdf7scTH0vTGW8F2i5mzoG4eJK1MVVnbpUoODN2M2otj-YVOrz9SFt4jJbK7O-cz2l37ZT074izLqRTv1VxayExTo/s1600/Lowlands+seen+from+the+escarpment.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTNoNEJAhHkBx-p-J4H97v5KAmV6KrMMCmo38ysvR8OCBdo533TFkPdf7scTH0vTGW8F2i5mzoG4eJK1MVVnbpUoODN2M2otj-YVOrz9SFt4jJbK7O-cz2l37ZT074izLqRTv1VxayExTo/s320/Lowlands+seen+from+the+escarpment.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the escarpment towards lowland Cameroon</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8gsBAjnW98U4RMawCaFCBeEhh4ssO0BFstl7xFWQlNULiD27r8VsnhUevh1srzR22ySSxw9i6zrwoiXlmbdSKBSGoZ3-Lp6fPY7RqmT01apo93SutqQUCzTJE07U0-vftZAUxezClF7Lz/s1600/Lunch+on+the+beach.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8gsBAjnW98U4RMawCaFCBeEhh4ssO0BFstl7xFWQlNULiD27r8VsnhUevh1srzR22ySSxw9i6zrwoiXlmbdSKBSGoZ3-Lp6fPY7RqmT01apo93SutqQUCzTJE07U0-vftZAUxezClF7Lz/s320/Lunch+on+the+beach.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach restaurant</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">We had mixed feelings about Cameroon. It was, after Nigeria, a pleasant place, with signs of hard work, commercial farms, and also small farms around the houses. People were, in the main, friendly, and the police were, with one exception, not out to extort. Just before leaving one discovered that we did not have car insurance, we had forgotten that Cameroon was not part of the ECOWAS countries, and so we did not take out any at the border. But instead of fining us, as he had every right to do, or trying to extort a bribe, he gave us a lecture, and told us to get insurance at the first major town. And yet there was an uneasy feel about the place. </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYFQiYhn03nNVAEja0iiZsVfiULTNSkY6WGe1kF6Er3yK7hXkSGV8VaZjsE5-vBS7obyFjoffmYUy9EnUXNffIRwHQjoSZKnQthEq_q5tgBOtALqoOaVLFzpOZz_T_wxZeie53mYtW1MF/s1600/Lobe+falls.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYFQiYhn03nNVAEja0iiZsVfiULTNSkY6WGe1kF6Er3yK7hXkSGV8VaZjsE5-vBS7obyFjoffmYUy9EnUXNffIRwHQjoSZKnQthEq_q5tgBOtALqoOaVLFzpOZz_T_wxZeie53mYtW1MF/s320/Lobe+falls.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lobe falls</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12pt;">The next country is Gabon, and we have heard </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: #03FF; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;">much about the place. We need, for the first time since Bamako, to do some serious Embassy hopping, and now we hear that the DRC visas may be difficult, due to the upcoming elections. And we want to see if we can get a second Angolan visa for Cabinda, to avoid the Brazzaville-Kinshasa crossing.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguYXZjf8x-YYg6wBugIodtDzg6wmfacSuwnVab4WEl9N1UkPV9R6xaD8ugFFJ3a2IndL4lLxljJdlwtQPUounjEmJTniNFp7zFY5kjcB-Z8LLdfgwOCPVZ-htgUvIPvRFcKwb5K8iZJpP5/s1600/Oil+rigs+off+Kribi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguYXZjf8x-YYg6wBugIodtDzg6wmfacSuwnVab4WEl9N1UkPV9R6xaD8ugFFJ3a2IndL4lLxljJdlwtQPUounjEmJTniNFp7zFY5kjcB-Z8LLdfgwOCPVZ-htgUvIPvRFcKwb5K8iZJpP5/s320/Oil+rigs+off+Kribi.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oil rigs: what does the future hold?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span> </div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-7788403802331809962011-09-19T09:21:00.000-07:002011-11-01T08:20:55.397-07:00Cameroun<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXf-2zxOXQG4-vA0pkYjWuF266V8U-bQfPdCcBH9WefktMGjm6HuYTdKFE7HCIK7gRGoYsCS-ajY9BR4mUJ9j-tW1EcqLHZDdWjwMUkFfOZsRv28cPP33C6HxNyNwywIfeekzPV4vG2Lx/s1600/Greetings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="320px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrXf-2zxOXQG4-vA0pkYjWuF266V8U-bQfPdCcBH9WefktMGjm6HuYTdKFE7HCIK7gRGoYsCS-ajY9BR4mUJ9j-tW1EcqLHZDdWjwMUkFfOZsRv28cPP33C6HxNyNwywIfeekzPV4vG2Lx/s320/Greetings.jpg" width="212px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendly greetings!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">This country will always be carved in our memories as the place with the worst roads of them all. There may be worse roads, in fact there certainly are, but as for main roads linking one country to another, with holes as big as swimming pools, entire hills that are one major mud bath, the road from Ekok on the Nigerian border to Mamfe, capital of this province beats them all. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVhnBB_HBARWke_OpAk8HeK9igStQcaUdqlTgM0nD1sw2Ha33l4gJ4B5dZJg4Ee_Zr7vRC_hfN-sqWeV7n5OQ9aX-UH1sEUjAkXF3qDEW7odUP6odyA7NLevhcDIvzMkxkM5Rcsi65cZ7/s1600/Land+Rover+in+the+ditch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUVhnBB_HBARWke_OpAk8HeK9igStQcaUdqlTgM0nD1sw2Ha33l4gJ4B5dZJg4Ee_Zr7vRC_hfN-sqWeV7n5OQ9aX-UH1sEUjAkXF3qDEW7odUP6odyA7NLevhcDIvzMkxkM5Rcsi65cZ7/s320/Land+Rover+in+the+ditch.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hans just slid off the road, it was like grease. <br />
And the advice of the guide did not help.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">It took us two days to cover sixty kilometers, and that was good going. Ok, Merlinda did this in two hours, before the rainy season, and after the chinese had begun their work. But that was then. We had two near disasters with the Land Rover. Once it slid into a ditch and had fallen over but was held up by the embankment, the other time it slid backwards into a ditch on the other side of the road. With patience, road building skills, many hands, and brute force we got it out. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjBbn13pvoUR8iPjQlYVVgCW3YHGa9kP3vZ-KfGE3NeqnPdvuZALiBdZHiL87AI88FvNh3idNZ9QWLsFuOk7WsodlFa49yBmVDNByoXnyDmT-rhO-i2mWw4iY3Twn4Wcme6N9eGj-dZyk/s1600/Mud+wrestling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjBbn13pvoUR8iPjQlYVVgCW3YHGa9kP3vZ-KfGE3NeqnPdvuZALiBdZHiL87AI88FvNh3idNZ9QWLsFuOk7WsodlFa49yBmVDNByoXnyDmT-rhO-i2mWw4iY3Twn4Wcme6N9eGj-dZyk/s320/Mud+wrestling.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Swimming pool-sized holes</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">My Cruiser got stuck several times. It lacks ground clearance, and the bull bar acts like a bulldozer. At the back the towbar digs in if the going gets bad. We took the easy way out: two long towropes linked together, tied to Hans' Rover did the trick. Looking at the photos later had us shaking our heads, one cannot imagine doing this sort of thing and not wrecking the car. As it is the Land Rover popped the one rear spring out again, and I had to empty hands full of sand out of the brake drums. Those new brake shoes were chewed!</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTl2_kTen3NfMAgeUmaE6ilFIWk1x7-EnHjSEGL4hqQzvt6urfsQXMhrRZ1ExFXanNpvmNpqR_i7iMsPnOBqnrxHnWxdVodDvrR3HxiLgfvZxcIMpu8zkYNEoJyqzObUzn2DSLFjkkqbIB/s1600/Stuck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTl2_kTen3NfMAgeUmaE6ilFIWk1x7-EnHjSEGL4hqQzvt6urfsQXMhrRZ1ExFXanNpvmNpqR_i7iMsPnOBqnrxHnWxdVodDvrR3HxiLgfvZxcIMpu8zkYNEoJyqzObUzn2DSLFjkkqbIB/s320/Stuck.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stuck! And the guide says Just come with fire!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">In Mamfe we sought accommodation with the local priest, father Manfred, and he promptly chased away the guy we had engaged as a guide. After some consultation the Bishop offered to send his driver along with us, to help, advise, and negotiate with people who have their own 'toll booths' on self-made deviations around the worst holes. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_KtvLwOd-DphAZZTgfrj5hfVaPiAdUzlgyu7E9TzlNB6XT73gOD69603pHm0ChxIGyY1TubnNMlYvYpGjOGTlDaTnZJlEYFFpg6gk3Mr0QL1RUYBX2P781KkWGSzatQs4ns2nPe1_YJys/s1600/Toll+road.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_KtvLwOd-DphAZZTgfrj5hfVaPiAdUzlgyu7E9TzlNB6XT73gOD69603pHm0ChxIGyY1TubnNMlYvYpGjOGTlDaTnZJlEYFFpg6gk3Mr0QL1RUYBX2P781KkWGSzatQs4ns2nPe1_YJys/s320/Toll+road.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This was actually a private toll road!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">In the village where we spent the first night, Eyumojoko a local Councillor came to welcome us, and to tell about her village. They give great emphasis to basic education, but just do not have the means to educate children beyond primary school. The soil is too light to support serious agriculture, and they have problems with buffaloes and antelope eating their crops. They are aware of the potential of tourism, and have a guest house on a nearby lake for visitors, but it is not finished. We pointed out to her that nobody knows about it, and that they should look at camping sites for overlanders as a start, then chalets with basic accommodation. It would be interesting to develop something here, but what a struggle with the roads as they are! The Chinese are pushing a major road through here, and then the world will probably just pass this spot by.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFBoy_So6PltY_QpehXFoJLzW1-95zfq-Wv2Zq0_mHVCNTM6_hhDJBl2OcyexJrXiR8oLGRUCBpdQRTQLgrZjzlJAmO0B9up6_dyAVB2DbU-DH0-R2UH07Fx5QxeAIyxjmp5isEOOqsEom/s1600/Town+road.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFBoy_So6PltY_QpehXFoJLzW1-95zfq-Wv2Zq0_mHVCNTM6_hhDJBl2OcyexJrXiR8oLGRUCBpdQRTQLgrZjzlJAmO0B9up6_dyAVB2DbU-DH0-R2UH07Fx5QxeAIyxjmp5isEOOqsEom/s320/Town+road.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Main drag in a village...</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">After Mamfe there is another hundred or so kilometers to go before we get to the main road, with tar, police, and all that. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"> <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid_xFr_5Pxj0r0rQDhSx7G5E6ko5WZPprjzTFdDBRrh7FTFTIhY1xCFJaSw1NHn39g7ShdC1sVsAqkP5UIWpwyTDjCyRpgRJvXFQjwYK-0EVc3Vg-Z-a25Y9RlSokojN53aQESXLq9zlUq/s1600/Balancing+tyres.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="320px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid_xFr_5Pxj0r0rQDhSx7G5E6ko5WZPprjzTFdDBRrh7FTFTIhY1xCFJaSw1NHn39g7ShdC1sVsAqkP5UIWpwyTDjCyRpgRJvXFQjwYK-0EVc3Vg-Z-a25Y9RlSokojN53aQESXLq9zlUq/s320/Balancing+tyres.jpg" width="212px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rebalancing the tires after <br />
all that mud</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">We left early in the morning for Bamenda, this time with the Bishop's driver, Michael, as guide, but soon had to stop to clear mud from the wheels, it made the cars bounce on the tar road! From good tar to road foundation, road bed being prepared, soupy mud left by the construction trucks, rocks, and a few mud baths we came to Bamenda, a beautiful setting with waterfalls, just four thousand foot above sea lever, where Mamfe was at about 400. Father Arnold of the Mill Hill Missionaries received us in a guest house set out for missionaries and visiting priests, which he runs with Dutch precision. </span></div></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">After washing kilos of mud from the cars we went back for a lazy afternoon, and had a great chat with father Arnold, who had spent almost twenty years in Mamfe, and was passionate about the development of the agricultural potential of the area, citing a local variety of orange good for juice, and many other crops, as well as an agricultural centre he had helped set up. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">Then it was time or some serious looking over the cars, this will be summed up on the page dealing with the vehicles. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9NYppL5t1hDnzlJtGWagrKP2U1kqKZWvQ9FExc-i6chqtNL9rP4RF44ACtg2-_W4CN-0jMBuyqbSzABbs7Y8KcRT10z6OMLYcagebZszZX4N1oeoLcA21U3AJ9tOaybutP0wG29-HDtKz/s1600/Nature.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9NYppL5t1hDnzlJtGWagrKP2U1kqKZWvQ9FExc-i6chqtNL9rP4RF44ACtg2-_W4CN-0jMBuyqbSzABbs7Y8KcRT10z6OMLYcagebZszZX4N1oeoLcA21U3AJ9tOaybutP0wG29-HDtKz/s320/Nature.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But the nature is stunning!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
</div></div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-66596158419086941722011-09-19T09:19:00.000-07:002011-11-01T08:20:55.398-07:00Nigeria<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqYQTyQdv5p0rtusHhPifx8PJ_RnCfxCw9LBBlAKAaoxfbbOuIWserYLbghchxEmJG-13ZCllrct2cTNBN05DuYhSzjZvSjsr4U9kAE9e4KZUTYY8MJdqR2wy6K6-XlliWswVE54fsz1PW/s1600/Nigerian+fuel+.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="240px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqYQTyQdv5p0rtusHhPifx8PJ_RnCfxCw9LBBlAKAaoxfbbOuIWserYLbghchxEmJG-13ZCllrct2cTNBN05DuYhSzjZvSjsr4U9kAE9e4KZUTYY8MJdqR2wy6K6-XlliWswVE54fsz1PW/s320/Nigerian+fuel+.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nigerian fuel in Benin, cheap!</td></tr>
</tbody></table> <span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">And then we went for Nigeria. We had braced ourselves, decided that the northern of the three border posts near Porto Novo would be the best bet, and that we wanted to avoid Lagos traffic at all costs. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY_M22LSmc5kupzUf9_UchIxklNQlJQGUJ2_BxNVUMz8oR1zUnrGSB3jXv0Qy7OI3Qkau2ukt-1UuPdQwVzEyVE0aLFV_nG0K11Nyr_GQPDwqfKQTDLPDT3H8hL4wXV8kcydCm4qrdF6DI/s1600/Fuel+smugglers+in+Benin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY_M22LSmc5kupzUf9_UchIxklNQlJQGUJ2_BxNVUMz8oR1zUnrGSB3jXv0Qy7OI3Qkau2ukt-1UuPdQwVzEyVE0aLFV_nG0K11Nyr_GQPDwqfKQTDLPDT3H8hL4wXV8kcydCm4qrdF6DI/s320/Fuel+smugglers+in+Benin.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nigerian fuel delivery</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">We left the ordered structures of the Songhai village in Benin behind, filled from a roadside black market stall run by two mute boys, who upended big glass jugs of what they confirmed was Super petrol into the Cruiser, and then headed out. Some artful GPS work and enquiry from locals followed, and we were stopped, on a dirt road in the bush, by a scruffy bunch of people who pushed a spiked barrier into the road in front of us. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">When I asked them why, they said they were from the Benin Customs service! They made a few phone calls, and we were allowed to proceed a hundred yards, where the scene was repeated. This time the people claimed to be Benin Police, Immigration Department. No uniforms, no signs, just a reed hut, rough tables, and bunches of children, but, most importantly, the Exit stamp!</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">And then the Nigerian Immigration: two pleasant youngsters, not in a hurry, found five bug-eaten entry cards for the six of us, and after a long discussion decided that one must fill in an exit card. That done we went to the Customs, and the theatre followed. One gentleman inspected the vehicles, minutely examining the cosmetics, the toothpaste and vitamin pills, and then the food. Every can was scrutinised to make sure the expiry date had not passed. One of my cans was discoloured, and the customs officer rubbed it off, pointing out that rusted cans were dangerous. Then he discovered that the expiry date was in the coming month! He offered to dispose of the can of coco milk, but I solemnly promised to make sure we consume it in the coming days. The discoloration on the can was, in fact, chili paste, and we hoped that we scratched himself somewhere before washing his hands.....</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">Then the road: a bad road, with perhaps twenty road blocks by police, customs, immigration, who kept us another hour, and wanted to inspect the contents of my car. Then we were in Ilaro, the first town, where we bought simcards, only to be told we must go to the next town, Shagamu, to have them activated. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMZh0Pnp-SaZKZBj_uPUQbkleRNs4tAEXWlK-Nm3ZKLhKQh8pCMkeCSBwp9l8hSNa3qWRdr1A0Pi6C5_n9OObaG-HtTaKJh6CYfay9QhupgYGYEEVsxUY9bS6MYiWYmi928Mn_9OA4RxXm/s1600/More+highway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMZh0Pnp-SaZKZBj_uPUQbkleRNs4tAEXWlK-Nm3ZKLhKQh8pCMkeCSBwp9l8hSNa3qWRdr1A0Pi6C5_n9OObaG-HtTaKJh6CYfay9QhupgYGYEEVsxUY9bS6MYiWYmi928Mn_9OA4RxXm/s320/More+highway.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Trans-African Highway</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">The first bit of the “expressway” to Shagamu was not bad, and it continued on to Benin City, our original destination. It was about one o'clock, and we thought that it would be easy to do the 250 km before dark. Well, we were wrong. Police road blocks, at times every two kilometers, the worst holes we have seen so far, and some of the worst drivers turned this leg into another extermination march.... And there was a corpse on the road, in the middle of nowhere, partly covered with palm branches.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">The police were not too bad, mostly they were friendly, and just wanted to know where we were coming from and where we were going. But they did delay us, and it is not funny having people wave loaded rifles at you. Traffic police, in funny red hats, were a different story, but they, too, got bored and let us go. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaXlu80pKwAWEzbU2Xu_GofdPWcKuZHj6fV9s9RIr-6tiJBbqvwowB2F6Wc41QhUda7RtDUralUvFMdhECSqYX9Lac0UR8pYmLp_UE-KleOowoEObFKFi74GKIko9Uqfcctyr4S3uD51rX/s1600/Trans+Africa+highway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hca="true" height="212px" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaXlu80pKwAWEzbU2Xu_GofdPWcKuZHj6fV9s9RIr-6tiJBbqvwowB2F6Wc41QhUda7RtDUralUvFMdhECSqYX9Lac0UR8pYmLp_UE-KleOowoEObFKFi74GKIko9Uqfcctyr4S3uD51rX/s320/Trans+Africa+highway.jpg" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More Highway</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">In places the Expressway had disintegrated, in others it was disintegrating. The maintenance was not being done, and in some places they just put a fresh layer over the old, cracked tar, despite the fact that the foundation was subsiding. In a few places they were actually laying a new foundation, and the traffic jams could be imagined!</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">In the end we dragged into Benin City just after sunset, with one firm address and a few possibilities, none on GPS. The first choice was full, but they pointed us to a hotel just down the road. Well, for Africa … cold water, which did not run all the time, a restaurant that only had meat pies and yoghurt.... but at least we were under cover, and not trying to bushcamp in the unknown. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">The next day we tackled the Trans Africa Highway, and it was more of the same. In one town the road out of town started as a double highway, then the two became one. And the one roadbecame two tracks that snaked between holes, ditches and mud baths. Only to transform into a beautiful double highway again for a few kilometers. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">We slept at Enugu, and after an early start we made for Ikom, with hopes to see the stone monoliths on the way. Well, we saw one hand-painted sign to a famous carved stone, but by then we were too tired from roadblocks, requests for 'something for us' and dodging potholes for endless kilometers. </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">In Ikom, thirty minutes from the border, we checked in with the local Catholic Parish, and they had a room for us and camping place for our friends. So we rested before tackling the border crossing and the 60 kilometers to Mamfe, having been assured that there were three or four bad spots, but that with vehicles like ours we should do it in a day!!</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">The evening was characterised by a typical rainy season downpour, and we could not help thinking that this was also falling on the road to Mamfe! </span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman,serif;">What are we to think of Nigeria? Anything we would say would be unfair, as we drove through at the fastest speed possible, and so our experience was limited to roads, some very good, some very bad, to numerous road blocks, mostly manned by policemen who asked for handouts, and were embarrassed to do so. Traffic police we had too, gangs of them, aggressive and shouting, but lacking in patience and the ability to listen to the answers to the questions they had asked. We drove through vast savannas and bushveld, sometimes with sugar cane, rice, and maize, but usually just unkempt forest, bush veld, and small patches of cultivation. This is obviously fertile land, but not used. There must be more tourist opportunities than the carved monoliths near Ikom, the brasses of Benin city or the mysterious earthworks near Lagos, but the threatening attitude of the constant police, the bad roads, and, it must be said, the upcoming elections in Cameroon made us decide to get through Nigeria as soon as possible. We did meet some very nice, helpful people, and maybe we can be convinced to come back and spend more time. Maybe.</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div></div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8588204014815363282.post-67017554658991269942011-09-12T10:33:00.001-07:002012-04-05T01:37:08.706-07:00Ghana, Togo, Benin<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><style>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKe7O763gmpIRRxrvMlAR7D6DxcvDmVlzI-opnyFbNDj2If9S3j0LWg37ER6Yl8oYppzadgnXVrybqSD38gUcajVZ7vh8LtRqNXEfk1ljqNK8BkPxGSDH0V0G2IsdjC3ZDI7DtkpgAzqYF/s1600/Benin%252C+market+traffic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKe7O763gmpIRRxrvMlAR7D6DxcvDmVlzI-opnyFbNDj2If9S3j0LWg37ER6Yl8oYppzadgnXVrybqSD38gUcajVZ7vh8LtRqNXEfk1ljqNK8BkPxGSDH0V0G2IsdjC3ZDI7DtkpgAzqYF/s320/Benin%252C+market+traffic.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every day is market day</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoBodyText">Ghana gave us a different impression. Maybe it was wishful thinking, maybe we enjoyed hearing English. We drove until late, stopped at a village to ask the local Chief if we could camp, and made the best of a quarry before the rains came down. The next day brought us, again, down not so good roads to Kumasi, where the GPS led us twice through the market, fortunately just as the rains came down, so the crowds were leaving. Then we found ourselves stuck in a gigantic Eid celebration, and sat for a couple of hours trying to get out of a crowd that wanted to dance, sing, and have fun. </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLotD8-xbwI8nOvPqQPZq8OvmrdQ5ZtMRyYq56It0tyNCHNEMS93CeoGguRsunF_d32e2M_ScRGD85Qsf90zi9X5Aqly7kcbk2mzhKrDjBYS1jx2Ftc9GuPCbo3tyolUeMDKP6q2ps7Z86/s1600/Ghana+traffic.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLotD8-xbwI8nOvPqQPZq8OvmrdQ5ZtMRyYq56It0tyNCHNEMS93CeoGguRsunF_d32e2M_ScRGD85Qsf90zi9X5Aqly7kcbk2mzhKrDjBYS1jx2Ftc9GuPCbo3tyolUeMDKP6q2ps7Z86/s320/Ghana+traffic.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Accra traffic</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"></div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">Eventually we found the Presbyterian Guest House, took a room, and crashed out. The next morning our friends left, while we lazed about, got a telephone chip (Merlinda's had expired) and had it activated for 3G. Then we headed for the coast where we spent a few days just lazing at a few places we had heard of. </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGSQeKW6OocQwEq4x6-FmXwNmR_Frqnawr0Q6pQgaGIQr2h9nhyRpaV_05qK18MCmXxOAHF1-SYikNTBP6kCRjlicz9qBs_gZW-mfHYAqchcakoRS79PYNzZbcoK2r00ziHVgN-T4jNUTF/s1600/Elmina+coast.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGSQeKW6OocQwEq4x6-FmXwNmR_Frqnawr0Q6pQgaGIQr2h9nhyRpaV_05qK18MCmXxOAHF1-SYikNTBP6kCRjlicz9qBs_gZW-mfHYAqchcakoRS79PYNzZbcoK2r00ziHVgN-T4jNUTF/s320/Elmina+coast.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beach scene near Accra</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">I wanted to change the air springs and restore the car to the original configuration, and so ventured into the Abossey Sokai market, where we spent two hours in various scrap dealers' shops, only to conclude that the part we need, or its equivalent, did not exist in Ghana. Another hour in a traffic jam trying to get to Shoprite, then an hour trying to get to the Art Centre left me a little drained, to say the least. From there it took os close on four hours to get back to Big Millies, where we camped, a distance of maybe twenty kilometers. Rome, move over! There is a bigger Eternal Traffic Jam!</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm;">What to say of Ghana? It took a lot of digesting, and we realise that we have barely scratched the surface. From the chaos of Accra to the self-sufficient villages in the hinterland there is a wide gulf, a difference that we find hard to grasp. And from people grasping to get some money from us, to some really nice, warm welcoming friends, we met a whole range of Ghanaians. </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGUeIZurskd3h0QX9nRZYMNvC75fmiD8vPHiQCtLuXN5M1FM1dqIJKDUZP6o7guxlK9_Ix9zHnXjWBdM2VuWlO3vbLaaOrAxopI1QVuXve0XA1avnJ2XGAN4Js5JC1Uqr3nBlnK5pWdjd/s1600/Bushmeat%252C+anyone%253F.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSGUeIZurskd3h0QX9nRZYMNvC75fmiD8vPHiQCtLuXN5M1FM1dqIJKDUZP6o7guxlK9_Ix9zHnXjWBdM2VuWlO3vbLaaOrAxopI1QVuXve0XA1avnJ2XGAN4Js5JC1Uqr3nBlnK5pWdjd/s320/Bushmeat%252C+anyone%253F.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reed rat anyone?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal">We were worried at the repeated requests, from policemen, for something, some bread, some water, a salary top-up, to outright demands for money. We found the acceptance of utterly chaotic traffic conditions strange. Ugandans would have reacted to the two- and three hour traffic jams by taking over the oncoming lanes, but in Ghana they sit and swelter, buy trinkets from ambulant sellers, call friends, and wait. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The diversity of cultures was also to us, as visitors, baffling. There are clear cultural divides, but we lacked the time to begin to understand them. And we lacked the time to begin to explore the history and the nature of this enigmatic country. </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisejae5GABvrOk3z_t1SPYsRbo5iQ7aqHLNTgEyx7mTegW7JBfJnpo9nr21CKeGF6ClQfL6GwKvuEfITIAMdkHi_A3cM8n4-UPbOg0p5HUGTT-CrYBQWonPe_H8nEpaC7wj2BrQHJpZZoi/s1600/Boats+on+the+beach.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisejae5GABvrOk3z_t1SPYsRbo5iQ7aqHLNTgEyx7mTegW7JBfJnpo9nr21CKeGF6ClQfL6GwKvuEfITIAMdkHi_A3cM8n4-UPbOg0p5HUGTT-CrYBQWonPe_H8nEpaC7wj2BrQHJpZZoi/s320/Boats+on+the+beach.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fishing boats on the beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2ivAOYWaT-3LXrBqiG1eldeStAXB_JraYt3Yi4XFqbd6TK9FmL7vKiKIXd8ht35-cbTQ-qAeA8gwMDDsWMv-sy5rwO7ubC_zskVLerP_G79gJT7Ki0U_QwKANhldckXA7y5Sa56_0V4p/s1600/Elmina+castle.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh2ivAOYWaT-3LXrBqiG1eldeStAXB_JraYt3Yi4XFqbd6TK9FmL7vKiKIXd8ht35-cbTQ-qAeA8gwMDDsWMv-sy5rwO7ubC_zskVLerP_G79gJT7Ki0U_QwKANhldckXA7y5Sa56_0V4p/s320/Elmina+castle.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Elmina castle, from where golkd, and later slaves were exported</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">Yet we came away with a sense of concern. Ghana seems to be bustling with energy, enterprise and potential. The education system leaves serious gaps: few shop assistants could work out our change without a calculator, almost nobody could give clear directions or estimate distances, and officials seem to have difficulty in copying details from a passport onto a form. Beautiful roads are being built, but the work seems to be done piecemeal, without planning. And many Ghanaians asked, very seriously, if they could join us to go to South Africa. Why would they want to leave this beautiful country?</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">We went north, past Lake Volta, and into the mountains. Magnificent scenery coupled with agricultural potential attracted us, and the idea of setting up a papaya farm here kept some of us thinking. Apparently foreign farmers are welcomed, even encouraged. Something to take further. </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRIqsFzPsH8M8PvDDFr7tJ_fqmoLATiNwTStBdNvLIQ7sNZyz_GnmXtimxPL7BgNZauISgnl7AJeD-G8vqCpBq7YXl7ki3d7JTYUHmn124-6NzLr_P1xj2IolIVSsmmF-bqtH3BhCbNRY/s1600/Village+scene.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJRIqsFzPsH8M8PvDDFr7tJ_fqmoLATiNwTStBdNvLIQ7sNZyz_GnmXtimxPL7BgNZauISgnl7AJeD-G8vqCpBq7YXl7ki3d7JTYUHmn124-6NzLr_P1xj2IolIVSsmmF-bqtH3BhCbNRY/s320/Village+scene.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Benin village</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">From here we crossed into Togo, and through the back country roads to Benin. Here too agricultural potential and lack of development tickled our interest. We were told that foreigners could, with the agreement of the local 'collectivity' purchase land, and that agricultural development is actively supported by Government. Cotton facilities were to be seen, victims of American subsidies. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy13xyo9DG3rfHEptrqxcrV6228w4AC7jd0r9o4epbQ1UpmJkJgxbRj-4BQnCflcJqKyUpvUJDIkP2z5mKRa-Z7LbhYC1WnVW6FxYevevOdyV6I-90jNs5cifr7I0K-nkwqqJSR_VspJ9v/s1600/Fitting+the+%2527bumpy+rubbers%2527.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjy13xyo9DG3rfHEptrqxcrV6228w4AC7jd0r9o4epbQ1UpmJkJgxbRj-4BQnCflcJqKyUpvUJDIkP2z5mKRa-Z7LbhYC1WnVW6FxYevevOdyV6I-90jNs5cifr7I0K-nkwqqJSR_VspJ9v/s320/Fitting+the+%2527bumpy+rubbers%2527.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fitting the 'bumpy rubbers'</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal">And then we descended to the sea, to get ready for Nigeria. One of the jobs I had to do was to replace the rubber bumpers that were removed to fit the air springs, which are now on the roof. A Ghana modification of the springs, in effect a Dyna truck overload spring under the normal spring took its place, and we were finally able to get some 'bumpy rubbers' that would fit. However, I first had to drill out a bolt that had broken off inside the chassis, tap the hole again to repair the thread, and then mount the rubbers. At the same time I could inspect the chassis, and check on the front wheel bearings. All seemed Ok, except that the right rear brake was unscrewing the automatic adjusting mechanism again. </div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA8_zXVts2x9iLYcD0A6wYoFb6RffQ4koofsy3I8EbT31cYeEHh8emJq3KxXUwjzjxk8c0-ytAuo4ToKkOm9a75-ZFo6OVc7NfqRmJYgOrbdrIcnOdAhO4r8KKDh4hpfvRojnEDbRC0xiI/s1600/Togo%252C+walking+to+the+market.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="197" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA8_zXVts2x9iLYcD0A6wYoFb6RffQ4koofsy3I8EbT31cYeEHh8emJq3KxXUwjzjxk8c0-ytAuo4ToKkOm9a75-ZFo6OVc7NfqRmJYgOrbdrIcnOdAhO4r8KKDh4hpfvRojnEDbRC0xiI/s320/Togo%252C+walking+to+the+market.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Togo, walking to market</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Benin deserves much more attention than we gave it. It seemed to be thriving, bustling, busy. Soldiers and police waved us on, toll booth operators asked about our trip and wished us “bon voyage” and we were sorry that we would spend only a few nights, in transit to the border. We passed through rural villages, towns where there seemed to be a perpetual market, and cities that would rival any in Africa. The place seemed to be neat, relatively clean, and orderly, and the children we met were well behaved. </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">British soldiers, perhaps at the time of the slave trade, sang:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">“Beware, beware the Bight of Benin!</div><div class="MsoNormal">Four comes out for every ten that go in!”</div></div>Coen J H van Wykhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07136367591018284116noreply@blogger.com0