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Gorongosa baboon and Sable antelope |
We have had a few long days on the road
now, and also some nice surprises. Our night in the Gorongosa park was good,
and we might have been tempted to return, but they wanted us to pay R 400 to
use our own car and fuel to go watch the game. No.
The camp site was good, not
too expensive, and we did see monkeys, baboons and sable antelope on the way in
and out. It is good to see the park being developed, but we were wondering
about the economic model.
Should conservation be a money generating
activity, or should it be a subsidized activity? Should Hollywood stars be
fleeced of $ 4000 per night, and nature become impossibly expensive for the
rest of us? We understood that they are trying to create employment and we saw
teams of workers laboriously fixing the roads, which could have been done faster
and for less money by using a grader. Is employment generation not a separate
activity? Would it not be better creating productive jobs on farms or in
factories?
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Have you ever seen rocks like this? |
Then we headed for the border, running long
the Beira-Harare railway line. We saw many heavy trucks, and the remains of
railway villages, including an imposing station and shunting yards, but not
much in the line of trains.
Checking out of Mozambique was fast and
pleasant, except for the toilets! Crossing into Zim was also quite fast, but
the attitude was less pleasant. We were engulfed by people offering their
services to make the entry ‘fast-fast’ but we disappointed them, although one
guy did offer us the free use of his pen!
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White Horse Inn in the Vumba mountains - a real treat! |
That night we slept in the White Horse Inn,
a lovely old world establishment in the Vumba mountains. It was our first cold
night, and we huddled in the lounge next to the fire, eagerly using their WiFi
to catch up on our mails.
Then we tackled the road into Harare, and
wondered at the many road blocks and check points. We were usually waved
through, except at one point where we were told that our temporary vehicle
import permit had expired, despite it having been issued the day before! By
mid-afternoon we were at Jo and Peter, and settled down to two nights of
domestic comfort, good food, relaxation and good company.
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Good friends, great hospitality |
The Cruiser was treated to a top-up of
gearbox oil, a cursory inspection of the spark plugs, and a replacement of the
windscreen wiper clips. There is some play in the steering tie-rod arms,
another item on our list of jobs to be done.
And then another 700 km run south, with
careful adherence to illogical and sometimes difficult to decipher speed controls,
until we clocked in at Beit Bridge. Checking out was fast, except for a customs
officer with no uniform or identification who told us he was going to have us
unpack everything, unless we made it worth his while. We pointed out that after
such a long trip we were out of food, out of beer, out of money….
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Last campsite: Tshipise |
On the South African side we encountered a
tide of people trying to enter Zimbabwe, and eventually discovered that we
should not go to the Entry hall, but to the unmarked one next to it. All went
fast, although there was a real absence of indications as to where we should go
and what should be presented when. Then we hit a few shops, and by sundown were
setting camp in Tshipise.
Unfortunately the place was rather full,
and we chose a site next to the main road, trusting that the traffic would
become less at night. Not so!
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Voyagers being steamed to perfection! |
Lorraine joined us on Saturday for the last
nights of our voyage, and we relished the warm waters, although it was a little
difficult getting out into the biting wind!
What did we get from the voyage? Many
beautiful memories, many nice photos, and some good experiences. I will
remember the people we met, from Senhora Chinanha in Ilha Mozambique, who is
building a future for herself and her daughter by sheer determination and hard
work, fellow travelers who joined in our feast at the Baobab in Vilanculos, PJ
and Ian at Libelula in Nacala.
Reinhard felt that the visit to Ilha de
Mozambique was the high point of the voyage, Shahnaz felt the diving was her
best memory, and Lorraine felt that overcoming her fears to discover snorkeling
at Bazaruto was the memory she would cherish.
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Oh the road is long! |
Tomorrow we pack up, and head home, another
600 km to where the temperatures are said to be around 4 degrees. Maybe we
should just turn around and head north again?