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Rocks near Nampula |
We had a weary time of it: more than a thousand kilometers
through the uplands of Mozambique, to a dusty, dreary hotel on the outskirts of
Nampula, and then down through magnificent rock outcropping and land with
magnificent agricultural potential, until we began to see the palm trees and
the dunes. Soon we saw the salt marshes, and then the long causeway out to Ilha
Mozambique.
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Dhows still trade and fish in these waters |
This is where the Arab traders had an outpost, only to be
pushed off by the Portuguese. Here we saw the oldest Christian Church in the
southern hemisphere! You can just wonder at the perseverance of the early
mariners who, after a sea journey of months, with bad food and little water,
stopped here, built up the fort by hand, traded and bargained, defended the
position against English and Dutch, and then sailed on to India. We had it
easy!
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Welcome! |
The island is a World Heritage site, and well it should be. Some
magnificent old buildings had been restored, one could imagine the cost, and
many are in the process of restoration. Now if the nice Nigerian gentleman
transfers my Microsoft lottery money, I might just consider buying a little
palazzo here, and doing it up as it must have been in the time of the
Portuguese.
And then we are off to Nacala, where a major deep-water port
is going up around the oil money, the development corridor going up to
Mozambique, but where the leaf fish is still said to frolic in the coastal
waters.
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This might be a little over the top ... |
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This church was built in 1522! |
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What about a fixer-upper like this? |
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This has potential! |
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